Eating with chef Zepho from Roka in Hong Kong

"Energy" is the first word that comes to mind after getting to know Roka’s executive chef Patrick H. Zepho. He's also extremely passionate and focused. 

As he was a vital part of the first Roka opening team, Zepho thoroughly incorporates both the restaurant’s concept and philosophy in his food.

After visiting Roka as an anonymous paying customer, I was so impressed that I just had to meet the chef. 

Zepho told me that he thinks Roka excels in terms of top quality of ingredients. They receive daily shipments of fresh fish directly from Japan, while their beef is fed exclusively on 300-day grain.

As far as the fruits and vegetables are concerned, Roka only utilizes organic products which are largely imported from Europe.

His signature trick is to highlight the dominant flavor within all the ingredients involved.

He utilizes a maximum of three ingredients, which he combines to exalt the taste of the central one.

While trying one of his dishes, namely the butterfish, I truly understood the perfect balance of the elements and his ability to awaken my palate through the perfect choice of complementary ingredients.

Looking at the rich menu, it is hard to sum up what best describes Roka: from sashimi to beef, from the cheaper organic Australian beef sirloin 10oz (HK$255) to the expensive Japanese wagyu beef 8oz (HK$825) that melts in your mouth.

The variety on the menu can be described as breathtaking, reflecting a selection of fine dishes where everything is a temptation.

Customers can choose between a lunch menu (six different sets (HK$198-488), a dinner tasting menu (HK$798 per person ) that includes fish and meat dishes, and a sake tasting menu (HK$475 for two to three persons).

Ready to start my journey in Roka’s world, the only challenging aspect of the meal is the choice itself, a choice reflected in only four delicacies presented here, but let us begin with their most popular dish :

Blackcod miso ( HK$145)

Chef Zepho said he prepared the fish over a long process of 48 hours during which it is pressed, then marinated to remove some of the moisture, which also helps maximize the flavor during the marinating process.

This results in a rich dish full of taste -- an explosion of flavor.

Tuna salad with apple mustard dressing (HK$120)

The tuna loin is "tataki," meaning being seared, cooked on the outside and raw inside. Refreshing and flavorful it has cemented the Rokas culinary tradition.

The tuna is served on top of thinly sliced white radish, and topped with the apple and mustard dressing. Light and powerful for a regeneration of the senses.

Foie gras no ume shu (HK$145)

The foie gras is wrapped in seaweed, poached in plum wine and spices, and served with squid ink toasted bread.

Zepho explained that the foie gras is poached this way in order for it to maintain its original flavor.

This dish is particularly appealing to the eyes, its presentation is extravagant due to the dark color of the bread.

Butterfish tataki with asparagus and yuzu dressing (HK$115)

Personally one of my favorite dishes. If you are lucky you will find it in Roka. But they don’t have it every day. Although it comes in a very small portion it is definitely worth trying. Its taste is fresh and delicate,   stimulating the palate. 

This is just a little sample of what you could eat in Roka but it can all be described using an Italian expression “bread for you teeth.”

While you shop, or in the middle of a busy working day, it will be a super tasty break at the bar eating a chocolate mousse or in front of robata grill simply picking some appetizers and drinking sake or wine. It is cheaper than a complete meal and it will give you the chance to enjoy Roka's cuisine.

This is exactly how I discovered the restaurant, and now it’s your turn.

Roka, shop 002 Level LG1, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, tel +852 3960 5988, www.rokarestaurant.com

About the author: Gilda Sposato is a world travel writer who previously worked for Italian TV. Currently living in Hong Kong, she passes her days interviewing people for her pieces and believes writing is a pure talent.


Gilda submitted this piece as part of CNNGo’s CityPulse section. To find out what other stories we are looking for, go to our CityPulse page.