Hong Kong today
One of Asia's vital economic capitals, Hong Kong moves at light speed. The densely populated city is made up of Hong Kong Island and the peninsula of Kowloon, which includes the comparatively roomy New Territories. In between is the famed Victoria Harbour, shrinking each year from reclamation, but never failing to stun.
Since the 1997 return of Hong Kong from British sovereignty to Chinese rule, the city has been redefining its cultural and political identity, hewing closer to its Chinese roots, yet maintaining its unique status and personality within the country. Longtime residents aren't shy about politics, and their love for heated debates about government are trumped only by passionate discussions about favorite Cantonese recipes.
Getting in and out
Airport
Located on Lantau Island 45km from the city center, Hong Kong International Airport is Hong Kong's only airport for domestic and international flights. The two-terminal airport is regularly ranked among the best in the world.
Find a red-colored taxi to take you from the airport to anywhere in Hong Kong, including New Territories and Lantau Island. Green taxis will travel only within the New Territories. Blue taxis are limited to Lantau.
Taxi meters start at HK$18. The meter should barely change at all on a trip from the airport to the neighboring AsiaWorld-Expo. To Tsim Sha Tsui, a taxi trip will cost about HK$225. For the 30-minute trip to Central the fare will be just under HK$300. Each piece of luggage placed in the trunk will cost HK$5. See the airport's website for more fare details.
The MTR Airport Express train takes passengers from the airport to Central in just 24 minutes for HK$100, stopping at Tsing Yi and Kowloon stations along the way. Get off at Hong Kong or Kowloon station and connect to the free shuttle bus service for transportation to major hotels.
Slightly cheaper is the Cityflyer airport bus, which departs every 15 minutes to Central and takes approximately one hour. Check this schedule for a bus that will take you where you need to go.
For those departing Hong Kong, in-city check-in service is available at Hong Kong and Kowloon stations starting 24 hours before flights, and available until 90 minutes before departure.
Train Station
Hung Hom station is the terminus for trains to and from major cities in mainland China, including Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou. See MTR's website for updated information.
China Travel Service is one of the main providers of tickets and visas into China.
Ferry Terminal
The main departure and arrival point for ferries to mainland China is the Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui. Ferries to Macau depart from Hong Kong Macau Ferry Terminal at the Shun Tak Centre in Sheung Wan.
For updated schedules, check the website for New World First Ferry to Macau (which also provides ferry services to Hong Kong's outlying islands), Turbojet for ferries to Macau and mainland China, or Cotaijet for a high-end ferries to Macau's Taipa Ferry Terminal and a direct connection to a free shuttle bus service to the Venetian Macau.
Getting around
Fewer than one in five people in Hong Kong own a car. Most use the highly efficient public transport system, which includes buses, mini-buses, ferries, trams, trains and subway. Check out the subway map for a better picture of getting around Hong Kong.
Octopus Card
An Octopus card is a convenient way to pay for all public transportation in Hong Kong. Pay a refundable deposit of HK$50 for a 'baat daat tong' ('Octopus card' in Cantonese) and go to any add-value machine or ticket office in MTR stations to add more money on the card. 7-Eleven stores also provide this service.
Visitors who anticipate travelling often on the MTR may consider an Airport Express Tourist Octopus card, which includes two trips on the Airport Express and three days of unlimited travel on the MTR, plus HK$20 for other forms of transportation, all for HK$300. Check out the MTR website for other tourist packages.
Octopus cards can also be used for purchases at convenience stores, supermarkets, vending machines and other retail outlets.
Taxi
Taxis are plentiful, though it can be difficult to find one during rush hour and bad weather. Call +852 2574 7311 to book a taxi in advance -- you may need to add an extra HK$10 or $20 on top of the meter price if you want a taxi to come immediately.
Taxi drivers generally understand basic English, although it helps to show drivers the names and addresses of destinations written in Chinese.
Ferry and tram
For a feel of historic Hong Kong, a ride on the Star Ferry is essential. It costs HK$2.2 to go from Central to Tsim Sha Sui. To get the full effect of Hong Kong's stunning skyline, take the trip across the water at night. Or take a tram -- the cheapest form of transport in Hong Kong costs HK$2. Enter trams at the rear of the car, then pay and exit at the front.
Language
Cantonese and English are official languages in Hong Kong. Although most locals are not perfectly fluent in spoken English, they are happy to converse with visitors, especially ones that need help figuring out Hong Kong's convoluted streets. Increasingly, Mandarin is also spoken, especially by sales people. Most taxi drivers understand English, but it helps to have your destination written in Chinese.
Good to know
- Don't expect much personal space or large hotel rooms and apartments -- with 6,339 people per square kilometer, Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated cities in the world.
- Hong Kong is a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China.
- The Hong Kong dollar is the official currency and is pegged to the US dollar at approximately HK$7.75 to US$1. Shops and taxis are increasingly willing to accept the Chinese yuan, but it's best to clarify this before climbing into a taxi without Hong Kong dollars.
- Tipping is not expected, although highly appreciated by anyone who has provided exceptional service. A 10 percent gratuity is normally included on food and beverage bills.
- A strict ban on smoking in bars, restaurants and other public areas has been in place since July 2009.
- Electricity is 220 volts and 50hz
- Hong Kong is 8 hours ahead of GMT time
- Hong Kong area code is 852. For collect calls dial 10010.
Where to stay
The Peninsula: Opened in 1928, this majestic hotel was the very first hotel to open in Hong Kong and remains exemplary of Hong Kong's best hospitality. Salisbury Road, Tsimshatsui, tel +852 2920 288 www.peninsula.com
W Hotel: Housing the first Bliss Spa in Asia and featuring the two-story Living Room lounge with some of the most able barmen in the city, this is the latest choice of visiting celebrities. 1 Austin Road, Kowloon Station, tel +852 3717 2222 www.starwoodhotels.com
Hotel LKF: A boutique hotel in the middle of Hong Kong's nightlife center, the hotel also features Azure, a popular rooftop lounge. 33 Wyndham St, tel +852 3518 9688 www.hotel-lkf.com.hk
Pacific Place: The Conrad International www.conrad.com, J W Marriot www.marriot.com and Island Shangri-La www.shangrila.com are all located within the Pacific Place complex in Admiralty.
The InterContinental: Located in Tsim Sha Tsui, the hotel has stunning harbor views. 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, tel +852 2739 4546 www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
Serviced apartments: Hong Kong is home to numerous serviced apartments, such as Shama apartments, which have centrally located properties suitable for those wanting a more homey feel to their accomodations. www.shama.com
What to do
Star Ferry: See Hong Kong in all its glory while floating across the habor for a paltry HK$2.2. Do it at night and get a colorful, neon-lit view of the skyline. www.starferry.com.hk
The Peak: For a postcard view of Hong Kong's famed Victoria Harbour, take the Peak Tram to the top of Victoria Peak. 33 Garden Road, Central, tel +852 2849 0818 www.thepeak.com.hk
Graham Street market: Located between Peel Street, Graham Street and Gage Street, the market has been around more than 100 years and still sells the some of the freshest produce on the island. You'll find the location with this Google map.
Happy Valley Races: A colonial tradition that has become ingrained in local culture, the races are an unforgettable experience, even if betting on horses isn't your thing -- and especially if it is. 2 Sports Road, Happy Valley, tel +852 2895 1523. Races are held every other Wednesday, September to June. www.racecourses.hkjc.com
Junk boat: Board a traditional junk and cruise the islands in historic style. Click here to see our selection of the 3 best junk boats in Hong Kong.
Dai pai dong: 'Dai pai dong' are outdoor cooked-food stalls that serve authentic Cantonese flavors in a rowdy atmosphere unique to Hong Kong. There is a great collection of dai pai dong under the Central escalator on Stanley Street. Other good ones are located on Yiu Tung Street in Sham Shui Po. The stalls are usually open all night.
Beaches: For easily accessible beaches, it's hard to beat Repulse Bay. Hop on either the 6, 6A, 6X or 260 bus from Central's Exchange Square bus depot. From here the trip takes half an hour or less. Or head for Pui O (take the Mui Wo ferry from Central Pier 6 and then the bus heading to Tai O, and get off at the third stop) or Shek O (take the Shek O minibus from Shau Kei Wan MTR station ext A2). www.lcsd.gov.hk/beach
Hike: For sweeping views of Hong Kong Island from Central through to Causeway Bay, take an easy hike off Bowen Road. Alternatively, tackle Dragon's Back Trail, which travels along a spectacular ridge overlooking Clearwater Bay and outlying islands and finishes at Shek O beach. You can also try a "reverse" Peak visit -- start at Po Shan Road and huff and puff to the Peak by following the signs, then take the tram back down. Leave after 8pm to avoid crowds and heat. www.lcsd.gov.hk/healthy/hiking
Excursions
Make a pilgrimage to the Buddha: The Tian Tan Buddha reached via the Ngong Ping 360 cable cars is a tourist trap we love. The big Buddha is the world's largest seated, outdoor, bronzed Buddha statue. Tung Chung MTR Station. www.np360.com.hk
Outlying islands: For a weekend trip, head to any of Hong Kong's outlying islands, accessible via short ferry rides from the Central Pier. On visitor-friendly Lamma Island, you can hike a trail from Yung Shue Wan pier to Shok Kwu Wan pier, passing a quaint village, outdoor seafood restaurants, Hung Shing Yeh beach and an incinerator with three giant chimneys.
Macau: To reach Macau, take a TurboJet (tel +852 2921 6688, www.turbojet.com.hk) at the Macau Ferry Terminal, or go directly from the airport. With its distinctive cuisine, beautiful colonial architecture and, of course, casinos that rival those in Las Vegas, the former Portuguese colony is great for a few days' visit.
Shenzhen and Guangzhou: A separate visa is needed to go across the border to Shenzhen and Guangzhou, part of mainland China. Book cross-border trains, buses and flights through China Travel Service. www.ctshk.com
Where to eat
Mak's Noodles: It would be a shame to leave Hong Kong without having a bowl of wontons. Mak's specialty are the immensely popular shrimp wonton noodles. 77 Wellington Street, Central, tel +852 2854 3810
Luk Yu Tea House: Legendary for its dim sum, Luk Yu was also the scene of a mafia shoot-out seven years ago. Colonial-era decor remains, down to the liveried Southeast Asian doorman. 24 Stanley St, Central, tel +852 2523 5464
Temple Street: For street eating the Hong Kong way, head to the string of late-night eateries in the Temple Street night market for Cantonese comfort food such as claypot rice. Jordan MTR Station, exit A, turn right onto Jordan Road and walk three blocks to Temple Street.
The Pawn: Fish and chips and other gastro-pub grub paired with some of the city's best cocktails in a beautifully restored former pawn shop dating from the colonial period. 62 Johnston Road, Wanchai, tel +852 2866 3444 www.thepawn.com.hk
The Flying Pan: Hearty, consistently delicious Western breakfast served 24 hours a day in the heart of Hong Kong's party district. 9 Old Bailey Street, Central, tel +852 2140 6333
Lei Yue Mun: For the city's famed seafood, you can pick out live fish and other catches of the day at the wet market in the Lei Yue Mun area and have it cooked to your liking in the myriad surrounding restaurants. MTR Yau Tong Station Exit A2, take green minibus 24 to Sam Ka Tsuen Ferry Pier, then follow the signs for a 15-minute walk.
Where to drink
Lan Kwai Fong: The area between D'aguilar street, Wyndham Street and Hollywood Road is filled with bars and clubs that get so crowded that revelers spill into the streets, especially on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. When you hear people talk about Hong Kong's raucous, moneyed nightlife scene, this is the place. Central MTR station, exit D2. www.lankwaifong.com
Aqua Spirit: Head to Aqua Spirit for swanky cocktails and a panoramic, floor-to-ceiling view of Victoria Harbour. 1 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel +852 3427 2288 www.aqua.com.hk
Club 71: Be politically (in)correct at this quaint drinking joint, named after one of the city's biggest protests in 2003. Hidden away in a tiny alley in Noho, it is popular with artists and political activists debating over pints. 67 Hollywood Road, tel +852 2858 7071
Halo: Get that members-only feel at Halo, a trendy chill-out lounge. Don't worry if your face isn't part of the database -- your concierge has a good chance of getting you in on weekdays. Lower G/F, 10-12 Stanley Street, Central, tel +852 2810 1460 www.halo.hk
The Jockey: Good grub at a relaxed pub. Not a bad place to start before hitting the Happy Valley horse races. 33 Wong Nai Chung Rd, Happy Valley, tel +852 2572 2266 www.thejockey.com.hk
Look for members-only Kee Club and Drop. Kee for the ritzy scene and Drop for hard dance beats. Kee, 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central www.keeclub.com; Drop, B/F On Lok Mansion, 39-43 Hollywood Rd., Central, tel +852 2543 8856 www.drophk.com
Where to shop
Causeway Bay: Head to CWB to see hip young things in all their sartorial glory in this perpetually crowded shopping district. In a place where people dress up to go clothes shopping, creative, head-turning outfits are worn by seemingly everyone browsing small boutiques and chain stores. The easiest way to get to congested Causeway Bay is by MTR.
Harbour City: With 700 shops, Harbour City is probably the most comprehensive mall in Hong Kong. Its stores sell everything from high-end fashion brands to the trendiest Japanese products. It is easy to get lost. Tsim Sha Tsui www.harbourcity.com.hk
Mongkok markets: Yuen Po Street flower market, goldfish market, ladies market and sneaker street, all in one neighborhood. The most convenient way to get to Mongkok is by MTR. Look for the navy- and purple-colored tourist information signposts.
Dried seafood street: Des Voeux Road West is cluttered with old shops selling the dried seafood essential to classic Cantonese cuisine. Everything from shark fin and sea cucumber to scallops can be found here. Because it can be difficult to tell genuine products from fakes, it is best to go along with someone who knows a shopkeeper or has experience with the market. Take the tram towards Kennedy Town and you will pass right down Des Voeux Road West.
Gifts
If you are looking for a classy souvenir that says 'Chinese,' head to Chinese Arts and Crafts Ltd., an upscale chain with beautiful Chinese products, including traditional Chinese cloisonne, porcelain, cheongsams made of silk, jade and other precious gems.
Cat Street market is popular with flea markets fanatics. Located on Upper Lascar Row, everything from old typewriters to 1930s glassware can be found here. Central MTR, exit D2, walk along Queen's Road Central to the Central escalator and ride uphill toward Hollywood Road. Follow signposts to the antique street market, which sits parallel to, and downhill from, Hollywood Road.
For trendy, kitschy, tongue-in-cheek design head to GOD, a clothing and homeware label that has managed to package Hong Kong's history and culture with bilingual irony and sell it at mid-range prices. Locations around Hong Kong. www.god.com.hk
Health and fitness
Gyms: Pure Fitness and California Fitness are the most popular gyms in town. For yoga, try Pure Yoga with the most reputable teachers. Serious-minded yogis can check out Anahatha Yoga www.anahatayoga.com.hk and Iyengar Yoga www.iyengaryoga.com.hk. Alternatively, check out the Hong Kong Tourism Board's tai chi taster class.
The Hong Kong government's Leisure and Cultural Services Department runs many sports centers equipped with swimming pools and courts and fields for badminton, squash, tennis, ping pong, basketball, soccer, and more. www.lcsd.gov.hk
Business
Internet access: Free Internet access is available in Hong Kong, but not common. Most coffee shops offer Internet access with a purchase. If you don't have your own laptop, find a Pacific Coffee Company www.pacificcoffee.com or head to the Central Library www.hkpl.gov.hk, both of which have computers. Some MTR stations, including Central Station, also have terminals with free Internet access.
Phone calls: Local telephone calls are free in Hong Kong. Pay phones cost HK$1 for every five minutes. International calls can be made from pay phones using calling cards purchased from convenience stores and supermarkets. SIM cards for mobile phones start at HK$60 with prepaid call time.
Clothing: Tailors are plentiful in Hong Kong. If all you need is a hem repaired or a button sewn, drop into any laundromat, or see our post for recommendations for tailors, cobblers and jewelry repairs.
Etiquette: While Hong Kong is decidedly Chinese in culture, the city's businessmen and businesswomen generally practice Western etiquette. This is not mainland China, so while a business card is always good, marking down each other's email addresses on Blackberries is also acceptable for new contacts. The international greeting of a good firm handshake is practiced -- kowtowing is over the top. However, Chinese businessmen out to impress will still order too much food and heap most of it on your plate as a sign of generosity. Don't feel that you need to eat everything -- some habits just die hard.
Money
Exchanging currency: Avoid changing money at the airport as the rates are poor. Any of the numerous licensed moneychangers in Causeway Bay, Sheung Wan, or Tsim Sha Tsui will offer better rates. Banks are your best bet for a good rate, but a HK$50 transaction fee is charged by Hong Kong's three major banks -- HSBC, Standard Chartered, and Heng Seng Bank.
Bartering: Bartering is common in open-air markets, less so in boutiques. However, a charming tourist with an easy smile may not find it difficult to wrangle a discount out of shopkeepers. See our tips on haggling.
Emergency info
- Ambulance, Fire, Police: 999
- Airport Lost Property: 2181 2018
- General Police Inquiries: 2527 7177
- General Hospital Inquiries: 2300 6555
