Seoul is an outdoor museum. Literally. Regardless of how bent city officials are on modernizing its façade to keep up with global trends, it will forever remain a hotbed of historical significance. On any given day one can flip through the history books by taking in any one of its five palaces: Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung, Gyeonghuigung, Changdeokgung and Changgyeongung. Of course, if you’re really keen and have five to six hours to spare, you can even hoof it to all of them. Taking a few breaks in between of course. 

Gyeongbokgung

Standing on a tiny islet in the rear garden of the concubine’s quarters is Hyangwonjeong. Whereas Gyeonghoeru appears masculine and magnificent, Hyangwonjeong feels much more reserved -- almost feminine and intimate by comparison. 

Geunjeongjeon soars over the great courtyard strewn with hewn stones. Builders deliberately used rough-hewn stones to reduce glare. Geunjeongjeon literally translates to "All affairs will be properly managed if you demonstrate diligence." 

Ceremonial guard stands before Gyeongbokgung’s Heungnyemun, the palace’s main gate.
Getting there: Take subway Line 3 to Gyeongbokgung Station and get out exit 5. Website: www. royalpalace.go.kr

 

Changdeokgung

In all its splendor, Injeongjeon is the nucleus of Changdeokgung. Foreign envoys were received here and major affairs of the state were all conducted herein. The floor of the main hall was once covered with blocks of baked clay but was later modified to a Western style in 1908. Today it is covered with wooden floorboards.

The Korean traditional decorative coloring of Dancheong is comprised of five basic colors: blue (east), white (west), red (south), black (north) and yellow (center). Dancheong represented social rank and status and denoted several symbolic meanings. It was also used was to protect the building’s surface from temperature fluctuations and to make the structures blend more in with the surrounding environment, having them appear less conspicuous.

The ingenious sundial and water clock was invented by Jang Yeong-sil in 1433 under King Sejong rule. The circular design is also an indication that Joseon scientists could accurately read the sun’s movement at the time and were also aware that the earth was in fact round.

The arching stone bridge that greets visitors at the entrance of Jinseonmun. The stream was said to be very sacred with stone animals carved into its structure to ward off evil spirits.

Getting there: Take subway Line 3 to Anguk Station. Get out exit 3 and walk for five minutes. Alternatively, you can take subway Line 1, 3 or 5 to Jongno 3-ga Station and get out exit 6. It’s a 15 minute walk from there. Website: eng.cdg.go.kr

Deoksugung

Towering Junghwamun Gate. Guarding the main throne hall of Junghwajeon this beautiful structure is usually the first stop on every tour throughout the grounds. It is also one of the most strikingly beautiful and a classic example of old meets new with the distant modern skyscrapers looming in the background.

Palace guard stands watch at Daehanmun, Deoksungung’s front gate before the Changing of the guard ceremony. The event has been taking place since 1996 and is highly recommended for newcomers. It is held three times a day (10:30-11:00 a.m., 2:00-2:30 p.m. and 3:30-4:00 p.m.).

Traditional markings atop Hamnyeongjeon, King Gojong’s sleeping quarters. The animal deities, many of which are comprised of the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac, are responsible for warding off evil spirits, protecting royal members inside. Gojong died here in 1919 at the age of 68. Hamnyeongjeon served as his royal coffin hall and spirit hall housing his memorial tablet.

Getting there: City Hall Station. For Line 2, get out exit 12. Subway Line 1 hop out exit 2. Website: www.deoksugung.go.kr/eng/index.asp

Changgyeonggung

Honghwamun -- the colorful front entrance of Changgyeonggung Palace. Its elegantly curved roofs and upturned eaves are representative of 17th century wooden architecture.


The first modern Western style greenhouse of its kind in Korea, Changgyeonggung Grenhouse was built in 1907 and remains indicative of the Victorian style that was prevalent during that time. With a true Renaissance-style fountain and labyrinthine garden occupying its front, the sharply pointed arch and window frames were made with long, thin wooden frames. Glass panels were then inserted within.


The main hall of Changgyeonggung Palace, Myeongjeongjeon was built during the 14th year of the reign of King Seongjong (1483) and remains the oldest main hall among all Korea’s palaces. Unlike the neighboring palaces, it is single-roofed and faces east.

Getting there: Grab subway Line 4 to Haewha Station. Get out at exit 4.

Gyeonghuigung

Eunghwamun, Gyeonghuigung’s front gate, was built in 1620 and originally faced east. It was later moved in 1932 by the Japanese, during their colonial rule over the country, and used as the front gate to Bangmunsa to honor Ito Hirobumi, the first resident-general of Joseon.

The main hall of Sungjeongjeon. Lining the stone footpath are the tombstones of former subjects of the king. Official ceremonies were held here.

Solemn wooden columns flank the main courtyard. Coloring the roof beams is decorative Dancheong.

Getting there: Get out at Seodaemun Station (Line 5) at exit 4.

Getting there (five in a day):

Deoksugung → Gyeonghuigung → Gyeongbokgung → Changdeokgung → Changgyegung

Start tour at Deoksugung. Walk along Deoksugung road (facing the front entrance, it’s that beautiful tree-lined street off to the left), past the Seoul Museum of Art, to the round about, curve left, and head straight for Cheongdong Intersection. Cross the street and turn right. Gyeonghuigung is on your left, a short walk down. As you exit Gyeonghuigung, turn left and head all the way down to Gwanghwamun Station/ Gwanghwamun Plaza. Turn left, and walk along the newly finished open plaza, replete with traditional statues and haechi statues. 

Gyeongbokgung will be a 15-minute walk up from there. After scaling the grounds, exit through the north gate and turn right. This will take you along the Presidential Blue House to Samcheongdong. Stop in for a tender beef sandwich at Bucella’s (+82 (0) 2 723 7339) and then up to Cha Masineun Tteul (+82 (0) 2 722 7006) for some delicious tea and rice cake. 

Make your way down to Anguk Station and turn left (station exit 3) and walk straight for about 10 minutes. You’ll see the large looming front entrance to Changdeokgung.

Changgyeongung is to its rear and is included in most tours. Proceed back to Insadong (Anguk Station exit 6) for dinner and a nightcap. The walk will take around five to six hours.

Additional information: Original Korean musical performance Miso is on an open run (showings at 4 p.m. and 8 p.m.). Visit Chongdong’s website for further details: www.koreanmiso.com or call to make a reservation: +82 (0) 2 751 1500.