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by Gregory Curley
21 January, 2010



   
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Seoul's Namdaemun Underground Market

Shoppers can buy everything under the sun at the underground market "except nuclear weapons and tanks"
 
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Namdaemun Underground Market
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Looking for imported goods in Seoul? Seoul's Namdaemun Underground Market more than likely has what you're looking for.

Below one of Korea’s largest and oldest and outdoor shopping areas, just north of the Han River, spreads the seemingly endless series of aisles of imported goods that make up the Namdaemun Underground Market. Also known as Doggaebi Market, if its been imported to South Korea, it can be found here.

Deodorant, kitchenware, mountain gear, linens, toys, fishing equipment, Lifesavers candy, vitamin supplements, protein powder, Twizzlers, Old Spice, oatmeal, Jim Beam, or even candy canes explode onto the narrow, labyrinthine walkways, beneath the swinging lights and under the noses of countless vendors looking to make a deal.

Throw in some steaming food stalls selling spicy noodles and other Korean fare and its a great atmosphere to kill a few hours.

Nuclear weapons and tanks

There's also a host of medicinal and nutritional products not normally available at Korean pharmacies, and available six days a week as the foreign goods section is only closed on Sunday. Keeping very much in tune with other traditional Asian markets, Doggaebi is also a great place to experience the local culture and breathe in everyday life. Stalls and stands don’t have names so it’s really just a question of combing the maze of alleyways thronging with visitors until you see what you wish to purchase.

Locals here joke that you can buy anything under the sun except “nuclear weapons and tanks”.

Namdaemun Underground Market

Dirt-cheap since 1964

While nearby Dongdaemun Market may specialize in apparel for fashion-forward shoppers, Namdaemun Underground Market sticks to everyday goods and those hard to find essentials for both foreigners and locals alike, and has done so since 1964.

A lot of the goods in Seoul's Namdaemun Underground Market are of questionable provenance (don't expect refunds) and are usually dirt cheap. Both perishable and non-perishable goods are stacked so high the shelves strain under the weight.

Getting there, getting in, and around

The most recognizable entrance is close to Shinsaegae Department Store, just up from the main road's bus stops and subway exits. The best way to get there is to take subway Line 4 to Hoehyeon Station. Take exit 5 and walk straight up until you see a tourism information booth, and they should have all the information you need. 

Getting there can be a little tricky because there aren't street signs in the area, so look for the landmarks like a woman selling rice cakes just outside the green glass-enclosed entrance, and just past her one can find tons of military gear and camping paraphernalia.

Once inside, a shopper has to map out their own route and use their mental radar to track down the cool stuff as walkways tend to morph into one another making getting out a lot harder than getting a deal. But maybe that's how they planned it. 




   
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Writer/photographer Gregory Curley left his native Canada for South Korea seven years ago. He’s been making Seoul his home ever since. When he’s not busy trying to appear creative as a copywriter, he’s blogging away or contributing assignments to both CNNGo and SEOUL magazine.

Read more about Gregory Curley
Tags: South Korea, Seoul shopping, Seoul market
user comments and reviews (3)
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bohemianrose
23 January, 2010
Namdaemun means "south big gate" because it was a gate from the old city. There are parts of Namdaemun that are literally underground. I have been in an extensive labyrinth of stores under the pavement there. It's at Hoehyeon Station on Line 4.
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bohemianrose
23 January, 2010
Namdaemun means "south big gate" because it was a gate from the old city. There are parts of Namdaemun that are literally underground. I have been in an extensive labyrinth of stores under the pavement there. It's at Hoehyeon Station on Line 4.
Prugio
23 January, 2010
Nice... and certainly you can find a lot of very interesting merchandise for good prices. The gov't, of late has clamped down on the sale of 'knock-off' goods...but they return eventually or just move to a new location. The phrase "questionable provenance" is a nice way to say 'illegally obtained.' Doesn't take long to see that many of the goods on the shelf are not actually imported to the Korean market for consumption. Just one example from thousands, Bryant bacon, priced at $9-$11 (2008) a package isn't really considered 'dirt cheap' unless of course we are talking purely the black market....then maybe.
AaronD12
22 January, 2010
Seoul has a number of these "underground" markets. Look around near the (above-ground) markets for entryways that look like subway entrances. Inside you can find some great bargains, especially on clothing.
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