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Visit anytime! North Korea lifts restrictions on U.S. tourists

The reclusive state opens up to U.S. travellers -- but when to go, and what to expect?
 
North Korean guides Guides at Lake Samji in the north of the country dressed in military uniforms worn during the anti-Japanese Guerilla War. Kim Sung Il, who would later become the first leader of North Korea, was among many Koreans that fought in the conflict.

North Korea has eased travel restrictions on U.S. tourists, hoping to boost its coffers and also improve the cash-strapped country's image.

U.S. citizens had previously only been allowed access during the spectacular mass games, held last year in August through October. Now, travelers from the United States will be allowed to visit North Korea on official guided tours any time of the year.

But one tour company was not expecting an immediate flood of U.S. tourists.

"I can't see how there's going to be a massive increase in Americans, but we see it as a positive move regardless," said Nicholas Bonner, the founder of Koryo Tours, a Beijing-based outfit specializing in North Korean tours since 1992.

Pyongyang's overture to the United States coincided with a request to discuss resuming tours with South Korea.

Last year, Koryo Tours took 282 U.S. tourists to North Korea compared to about 700 to 800 non-U.S. Westerners. Less than 2,500 U.S. citizens have visited North Korea since 1953.

According to Bonner, the real game-changer is that "Americans will be allowed to join with other Western tourists in exploring the rest of the country and not just areas just across the border."

"We don't think this would have occurred under the last American administration."

A North Korean girl in Pyongyang.
A North Korean girl in Pyongyang.
An eye-opening experience

With tourism so controlled, and only a low number of Westerners to have visited the Communist state over five decades, not much is known about the everyday lives of North Koreans, Bonner said.

Those who have gone, were "not really prepared for the humanity you see outside of the normal preconceptions people have," he added.

School children run up to tourists to say "Hi!" then run away, and the people seem genuinely friendly, offering a "Hello, how are you?" or "Welcome to my country," Bonner said.

Skeptics see such comments as proof of North Korea's manufactured 'Peoples Paradise,' while others interpret it as experiencing the real people and personalities that make up the country.

Guides, not guards

Despite the easing of restrictions, the same main rule still applies -- any tourist to North Korea must be accompanied by official guides.

"They're not 'guards' but 'guides', and they're trained," Bonner said. "They're not there to rip you off, but to inform you about their country. The guides are the closest contact tourists are going to have with the North Korean people."

Bonner said the locals like to drink, so if they like you and get a chance to share a drink with them "then you can really get to know them."

Along with getting to know the North Korean people and guides, a trip to North Korea provides a chance to see some interesting museums, like the War Museum in Pyongyang with its 360 degree, 10-meter high wall painting showing a fight during the 'Victorious Fatherland Liberation War.' The scene shows the Korean People's Army retaking a village from the U.S. Army.

At the Metro Museum they've actually dug a large hole underground to simulate a real underground metro station.

Mass Games, North Korea
A performance during the Mass Games.

More seasons, same restrictions

Under the new travel regulations, U.S. citizens can now come during the spring and autumn, with April and May being a typically popular period. In April, the country celebrates the birthday of Kim Il Sung, who founded North Korea in 1948 and was its first leader.

August through October, tourists can catch the extravagant Mass Games in Pyongyang.

The Mass Games is a performing arts and gymnastics event featuring tens of thousands of performers participating in a spectacle of colorful, intricately-choreographed shows.

Of summertime, Bonner said, "It's just hot, but we still go in and out. Nothing quite like going to Wonsan, and going to the beach. North Korea has some of the most beautiful landscapes in Asia. Its not really known as a place to get a tan or mud bath, but it's there in Wonsan; which is really a postcard from North Korea, and that's not what people associate with the normal monument tours."

The Mass Games usually take place from the beginning of August to October 10, and that's usually the hot ticket time for tourists, according to Bonner. He says its when they take the biggest percent of visitors and they typically go for a five to six day tour, leave the country, then return for the tail end of the Mass Games.

Play by the rules

North Korea's new openness is not without caveats, interlopers with agendas will not be tolerated and tougher restrictions are placed on journalists.

Recent examples of unapproved excursions include the case of the two American journalists from CurrentTV who were detained in 2009, and more recently, a missionary crossed the DMZ (which divides North and South Korea) to allegedly "bring a message of Christ's love and forgiveness" to North Korean leader Kim Jong Il.

The government approved tours generally have no problems, but there have been instances of American tourists violating policy even after undergoing extensive pre-travel briefings on the finer points of North Korean travel.

"We once had an American tourist based in Beijing who went around North Korea saying, 'We don't do it this way in our country, we don't do it with guides.' And he'd just wander off from the group," Bonner recalled.

"It just causes a problem. North Korea is still sort of at war with the United States within their borders, and you're told nicely to stay with your group. With the trouble this chap caused the guide got a bollocking, but they let him off. We just don't want a situation where they (the guides) get into trouble because of a misbehaving tourist."

These limitations may make touring North Korea far from perfect, but for curious visitors interested in the reclusive country, now may be the opportunity to see it, albeit in a controlled fashion, for themselves.

The 1953 cease-fire that ended the three-year Korean War never led to a permanent peace treaty, leaving North and South Korea technically at war. Earlier this month, North Korea proposed a formal treaty to replace the armistice and called for international sanctions on it to be dropped.

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I totally agree with you zippy,the people of North Korea are prisoners and slaves to a wretched totalitarian regime and they richly deserve the freedoms that those in the "Free World" enjoy.

jason M
<a href="http://directory2009.com/" title="http://directory2009.com/">http://directory2009.com/</a>

2

Having just yesterday listened to an interview with a South Korean lady resident, who got to visit heer sister in Norrth Korea for the first time in 60 years (she's 78), I recognize that most of these "facts" are merely a guy trying to shill his tourist business.

The simple goods (soap, long underwear) she took to her sister were confiscated; her sister is emaciated, living in extreme poverty; so "brain-washed" that every conversation was dripping eith ""Dear Leader" that the woman eventually gave up and went home to South Korea..

I would ! Call me adventurous !
I'm an American living in Seoul, South Korea, and I visited North Korea in November 2008 (just before they shut down the border to tourists). We had a guided trip to Kaesong City and the countryside around Kaesong. Kaesong City was extremely eerie. It felt like being on a movie set like 'The Truman Show' where everything was staged for us. The North Korean guides who were with us were very polite and friendly. We were allowed to send postcards from the post office in Kaesong, but the North Korean guides had to read all of our postcards before we were allowed to send them. I had written the words "North Korea" a couple of times on my postcards and I was required to cross out those words and write "DPRK" instead. All in all it was a fascinating trip, although fairly expensive. I do worry about who that money went to and what it will (or won't) be used for, however.
I wonder if they'll be having tours of any of the 6 city-sized concentration camps housing up to 200,000 political prisoners? Maybe a tour of the sites where they recently conducted their atom bomb tests? Maybe, if you're real lucky, you can sit down and eat some tree bark and grass clippings with the locals, and if you go during the winter, you'll have no problem star gazing...as there's no power to anything outside of Pyongyang to obscure your view...you can freeze in the dark like millions of other North Koreans! Tourism to NK is funding the regime of that ruthless, pot-bellied pygma who rules the Hermit Kingdom, last bastion of Stalinism, with an iron fist. So go ahead and help fund his playboy lifestyle while millions slowly starve to death in what must be one of the more hellish places on earth.
This change just implies that Kim Jong-il needs foreign currency to sustain his regime, not to sustain or improve their peoples's living. His first priority is to keep the Red Army, the Communist Party and to defend Pongyang. Except this, he never concerns what would happen to the people. In 1990s, about 3 million people died of starvation, when they exported some of the grain donated from the South Korea. What we should do is to try to make them change their basic political for the poeple. There is no need to go there just to help Kim, Jong-il to sustain his regime.
though i don't know about more the situations of the north-korea,but i don't agree with you completely.you haven't the right to change the regime of one sovereign state ,or you are the invader !And all of the other countries should be union to oppose you ,and protect the human rights.US always like to interfere other states' internal affairs as as invader
Yes, the US has done all kinds of evil things to North Korea. Like sending food for their starving children, medicine, fuel, all kinds of evil things. North Korea has publicly declared that it will wipe the US off the map, and we must be evil bastards to want to prevent them from being able to hit us with a nuclear missle. The way I see it, if I have to pay to feed someone's family, then I'm going to have a say in what that family does. Or, they'll have to stop building bombs and start buying food for themselves.
As Americans we like to look out for the best situations for mankind. Even though we inade, its for reasons, we just don't invade for our sake. if other countries want to live in poverty we let them unless you become destructable to us. Like Bombing in our cities. BBN had a point, kim,jong lets his people die while he lives the highlife. in a democracies perspective thats not humane. but we havent invaded yet jim jong likes to threaten us with his Bombing antics. Not acceptable to a country like ours
The United States is always interested in promoting the human rights of people in all countries. If that means putting pressure on governments abroad to insure those rights, then so be it. Sometimes "interference" is warranted. The people of North Korea are prisoners and slaves to a wretched totalitarian regime and they richly deserve the freedoms that those in the "Free World" enjoy. The enslavement of the N. Korean people has gone on for more than half a century and needs to end. Let the N. Korean people breathe deeply the fresh air of freedom. I only regret that the United States abandoned the N. Korean people in 1953 and left them with their current plight.

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