Lombok Kuta: Surf, sand and space

The parched hills of south Lombok taper down to blithe bays, where waves pound tracts of uninhabited white sand. The visual contrast here is as great as the difference between Lombok’s Kuta and its namesake on Bali, where vacationers throng beaches during the day and throbbing clubs at night.

Lombok, the large hill-humped island to Bali’s east, boasts bountiful jungles and awe-inspiring volcanoes. The further south one ventures, the drier the land becomes. But it is the swells off the craggy coast that draw visitors to Kuta, a sleepy seaside village frequented by surfers looking to tackle some of Indonesia’s best breaks.

Surfer's paradise

A few dozen bungalows and open-aired restaurants with names like G’day Inn and Family Café line the main beach drag. Motorbikes strapped with surfboards pass at long intervals down the mottled road, but most of the traffic is made of bare-footed surfers out on leisurely strolls.

Because the waves get going early, people rise at daybreak. By 9am on a good day bronzed bodies speckle the water waiting for the waves off Gerupuk Bay. Tourists mingle with young, orange-haired Indonesians who have been surfing as long as they could walk.

“Go, go, go,” they shout when a good break rolls in, laughing, paddling furiously and cheering when somebody catches the wave and rides it with ease. In the afternoon those same surfers fuel up on sandwiches and salads at vegetarian restaurant Ashtari Café.

Veggie eats

Ashtari sits in the hills overlooking Kuta’s main drag. The quiet, homely space has some of the best views around and a delicious menu filled with locally sourced produce. Leafy greens, focaccia with veggies and sweet snacks add substance to coconut-infused coffees and milkshakes. The owner, Helen Morgan, bakes the cakes and breads fresh each morning.

Jump-started relaxation

Morgan recently started offering Thai-style massages (Rp120,000 for 1.5 hours) to surfers with sore muscles or visitors simply needing a jump-start into relax mode. After a nap or a game of Scrabble some hard-core surfers hit the waves again before dusk. Others drag wave-battered bodies to Ketapang Café and knock back a few cold Bintang beers. After sunset people flock to the bamboo-thatch huts along the beach that serve up fresh fish, prawns and other Indonesian treats.

High season here typically falls between July and August, but even then crowds never amass in they way they do in Bali. After a few days in town, one picks up a rhythm and the same faces start appearing in every seaside eatery. Kimen, who goes by one name and is the founder of Kuta’s main surf shop, says it is precisely the quiet, laid-back atmosphere that makes Kuta such a treasure.

It is also perfect place for novice surfers, since Kuta’s surf spots cover all levels of skill, from beginner to professional. Kimen Surf’s instructors take visitors to bays named Mawi, Are Goling, Seger Beach or Bangko-Bangko, the spot whose tube-shaped waves hit their groove in May and pull in pro surfers from around the globe.

The coming (tourism) storm

Kimen said he and other businesses are preparing for what could prove an influx of tourists with the opening of a new international airport, which is scheduled for completion this spring.

Many in this community are banking on tourism to improve the economy, which in the past has suffered from drought and underdevelopment. But Kimen hopes developers learn from the mistakes made on neighboring Bali, where the environment now suffers from inadequate infrastructure to meet the needs of its many visitors.

What you need to know

Coming and going: Taxis are available from Mataram airport in Lombok; 1.5 hours for Rp170,000. From Bali, Perama (www.peramatour.com) bus company offers ferry tickets and connecting shuttles for Rp150,000. The trip takes around 12 hours.

Navigating Kuta: Most of the places along Kuta’s beach road are within walking distance. Bemos, small pick-up trucks with benches, also depart from the main junction and motorbikes are available for rental. Driving is not recommended for the uninitiated, however, so travel companies can book transportation to more distant beaches. Kimen rents bicycles.

Activities

Surfing is the draw for most visitors, but short hikes, snorkeling or lounging on the beach with a book are also good ways to pass the day. Kuta is close to a number of secluded bays with safe and stunning turquoise water. Most have a few drink stalls, but little else, so be sure to pack some food and sunblock. Tanjung A'an and Mawun, both highly recommended, are about 7km from Kuta.

• Kimen Surf: For lessons (Rp310,000/day) and board rental (Rp30,000/day). Jl. Kuta-Mawun, Lombok; +62(0)370.655064; kimensurf@kuta-lombok.net.

Eat/Drink

A few warungs, small open-air restaurants serving seafood and other typical Lombok dishes, cluster near the beach across from Surfer’s Inn. Edho’s, near the popular Gerupuk break, serves up thick coffee and breakfast. Café Seger does a mean grilled fish and Family Café offers Western cuisine and cocktails. Also be sure to check out:

• Ashtari: Vegetarian café open from 8am-6pm. +62(0)817.5787502; gone2lombok@yahoo.com.au.
• Ketapang Café: Shakes, pizzas, burgers and Indonesian fare. +62(0)370.655194
• The Shore Bar: Cold beer and cocktails with local bands every Friday night and occasional DJs.
• Warung Bule: Tiny but cozy place facing the sea.

Sleep

• Surfer’s Inn: Comfortable, stylish rooms with a pool. Rp100,000 with breakfast. +62(0)370.655582; www.lombok-surfersinn.com.
• G’day Inn: Quaint, simple bungalows. Rp70,000 for double room with fan. +62(0)370.655432.
• Segare Anak Bungalow: Simple backpacker accommodation to nicer rooms with air conditioning. Rp80,000 for standard room with fan.+62(0)370.654868; segareanakbungalows@yahoo.co.id.
• Hideaway Bungalow: A private bamboo bungalow steps from the ocean. Good for honeymooners or those looking for a little more privacy. Rp200,000/day. support@explore-lombok.com.
• Novotel Lombok: Currently Kuta’s only four-star resort. Starts at $67. +62(0)370.653333; reservation@novotel-lombok.com.