Indonesia's black magic market

Down a narrow alleyway where strings of sun pierce the gaps between the overhang sit small, dusty trinkets, stones and oils. The haphazard collection, spread throughout various stalls, ranges from antique-looking Hindu symbols to pieces of green and red cloth emblazoned with Javanese Arabic. These charms are believed to protect their owners from deep-seated superstitions that many in Indonesia harbor. 

Known in Indonesia as ilmu hitam, black magic has a history that transcends religious differences in this multi-ethnic but politically secular country. At Yogyakarta’s Beringharjo market, these talismans fill old wooden toolboxes or pushcarts that once plied the streets of the city at the heart of Javanese culture. 

Blocking bad spirits

Many of the charms, or penangal balak, are protective, meant to block spells or absorb bad spirits. They include Arabic prayers penned on cloth worn beneath one’s clothing, special stones or colorful glass rocks, and ginger roots hailed as antidotes to toxins. 

Indonesians believe in both good and bad magic, as well as the presence of the paranormal. They say Yogyakarta has a particularly strong spiritual presence because it is home to the country’s only Sultan, who they see as a medium between god and the people.

Those who work at royal institutions often received monthly salaries between US$1 and US$2 as a symbol of devotion and respect for the Sultanate. It is this energy that strengthens the city’s magic.

Magic still works its charm

“Many think the more energy people put into believing in black magic the stronger it becomes,” says Antonia Suryantari, a 27-year-old English teacher who grew up in Yogyakarta.

She says younger generations don’t place their faith in magic the way their parents do, but Yanto Sugiyanto, who has sold charms in Beringharjo market for 30 years, says he has seen little change in the popularity of his goods. People of all ages buy the talismans as collector’s items, he says, while turning a piece of small, yellow bamboo in his hand.

Yanto’s small station hugs the wall of a building across the alley from two women who sell an Islamic-influenced collection of talismans. Scrolls with scriptures from the Qur’an float in liquid-filled vials on a shelf above distinctive Indonesian swords, or kris, thought to possess magical powers. 

A box containing bamboo oil warns buyers that it’s a reproduction, as are most of the antique-looking items. The oil, which sells for around US$0.50, is popular because it is cheap and is meant to serve a plethora of purposes -- from collecting debts to improving trade and farming. 

A cure oil for ailments

Other oils -- such as sandalwood, citronella and jasmine -- cure ailments and imbue users with intelligence or beauty. Nur, the owner of this shop, says these beliefs do not challenge Islam if the charms are used to improve one’s health or livelihood. 

Also available: susuk, brass or gold charm needles, that are inserted under the skin to treat pain or protect against injury or incident. Legend has it that susuk was the reason former dictator Suharto amassed such considerable political power and longevity, but a shaman must insert the needles in the body.

Nur says she gets the brass slivers from a factory, and that none of the charms have been activated. That requires a visit to a wise man who has studied the art of black magic, but it doesn’t seem to dissuade buyers, who still flock to this market to assuage their fears of evil forces. 

A nail sits among kris, traditional Javanese daggers thought to possess magical powers. Homeowners often hammer nails with Qua’ranic verses in to walls to prevent wicked spirits from entering.


Men bargain with Nur on a Saturday. The talismans at her stall are cheap compared to antiques that can go for thousands of dollars.


Products from natures, such as stones, old wood and bamboo, also carry protective powers.


Vials of liquid hold charms or scrolls with verses from the Qur’an.


A woman walks down the alleyway where black-magic vendors still run a rousing trade.

Getting there

Beringharjo market is on Jl. Malioboro across from Mirota Batik and around 2km from the main train station, Stasiun Tugu. To the north of the market,  runs a small street where these black magic goods are sold. Ask anyone around where you can find "ilmu hitam."