48 hours in Seoul: Your essential guide

Where do you start exploring in the world’s second-largest metropolitan area, a sprawling city of more than 10 million people? At the beginning, of course, with a trip through the Old City. 

Day One: Old City - North of the Hangang River

A teahouse in Insadong

Insadong

Insadong is a narrow corridor stretching from Anguk Station (subway Line 3) to Tapgol Park that's stuffed with antique shops, small galleries and craft shops. Branching off the main drag are plenty of side streets dotted with low-ceiling hanok, traditional Korean houses, many of which have been converted to cafes and restaurants.

Don't miss the group of teahouses in the courtyard of the Kyung-in Museum of Fine Arts. Another top attraction is Min’s Club (tel: +82 (02) 733 2966, Exit 6 at Anguk Station and turn down the fourth street on your left where you’ll see Sudo Pharmacy), a restaurant and wine bar built in the 1930s by one of Korea’s first modern architects. There’s a great assortment of set menus blending Western and Korean-style cuisine.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gyeongbokgung Palace is the most prominent of Seoul’s five palaces. Like Beijing’s Forbidden City, Gyeongbokgung was once a city in itself and takes several hours to see. Along its eastern wall is Samcheong-dong Road, a stretch lined with gingko trees -- beautiful for autumn walks -- that eventually forks, with one road leading to the Presidential Mansion and the other to a road of cafes and shops that are always crammed with locals. Samcheong-dong Sujebi (102 Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, In Samcheong-Dong, tel: +82 (02) 733 1109) whips up a  refreshing bowl of potato noodle soup.

Rak-Ko-Ja hotel

It's a five-minute taxi ride from Gyeongbokgun to Bukchon, the area to really get a feel for the Seoul that existed prior to its late 20th-century modernization. The majority of the hanok are located at 31 Gahoe-dong. There are also a host of traditional and contemporary galleries to explore. For those looking for a place to sleep, the Rak-Ko-Jae hotel (tel: +82 (02) 774 2261) is replete with beautifully renovated traditional guesthouses. Meals are provided and the friendly owners sometimes host cultural events for visitors.

Cha Masineun

Cha Masineun Tteul (Samcheong-dong 35-169, Jongno-gu SEOUL tel: +82 (02) 722 7006) literally translates to “A garden where people drink tea.” Cha Masineun Tteul offers relaxing views and a spirit of ancient tradition. The signature sweet pumpkin rice cake (6,000 won) is superb, as is the chilled omija cha, a five-flavor berry tea (7,000 won.)

Day Two: New City - South of the Hangang River

Bongeunsa Temple

Bongeunsa Temple

Dating to 794, Bongeunsa Temple is one of Seoul’s largest and most impressive temples. Its trademark 23-meter-tall statue of the Maitreya Buddha alone makes it worth the visit. Detached from civilization, even beside the modern grid of Samseong-dong’s business district, there’s a real calm inside its grounds. The Buddhist artwork is also remarkable.

Korean BBQ at Koggi Koggi

A playground for the nouveau riche, the ritzy area of Apgujeong is a favorite among Seoul’s most successful elite. The shops along upscale Rodeo Street (Is there such as thing as a non-upscale Rodeo Street?) are worth a browse. Korean BBQ restaurant Koggi Koggi (tel: +82 (02) 543 4244), a local favorite, is a great choice for lunch or dinner. Koggi Koggi serves up amazing samgyeopsal, bite-size strips of pork marinated in basil and paprika (8,000 won per serving.) Both the side dishes and traditional soybean soup (doenjan jjigae) are excellent.

Garosugil Street

This tree-lined street (Apgujeong Station, Exit 5) is full of European-style street side cafes, boutiques and wine bars. Buccella’s (tel: +82 (02) 517 7339) is a great choice for lunch. The tender beef sandwich (8,500 won) is the menu item of choice. Mug for Rabbit is a great place to to people watch over a cappuccino (4,500 won.)

Writer/photographer Gregory Curley left his native Canada for South Korea seven years ago. He’s been making Seoul his home ever since. When he’s not busy trying to appear creative as a copywriter, he’s blogging away or contributing assignments to both CNNGo and SEOUL magazine.

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