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Chongqing: Hectic, sprawling symbol of China's economic success

Chongqing: Hectic, sprawling symbol of China's economic success

If you want to see how quickly China is changing, take a stroll through Chongqing, a foggy, messy, Chinese city home to 30 million people
Chongqing city chinaEnough "fog" for all 30 million people.

The Great Wall. Terracotta warriors. The Bund. There are many places in China that showcase the country's long and varied history.

But what if you want to see what China's become in the past 30 years, going from a land of Mao suits to the world's second-largest economy?

Nothing defines "boom town" quite like Chongqing.

Located in western China, and previously part of Sichuan, Chongqing has been transformed from a small river port into a metropolis of 30 million people over just a few years, becoming the largest municipality in the world.

As my flight cruises into the city, in every direction I see a never-ending stream of cranes, half-built residential complexes and new office towers. It resembles something between unchecked economic growth and the end of the world.

Adding to the oppressive vibe is a persistent "fog" that never leaves the sky.

While the "Build it first, ask questions later" mentality doesn't make for an attractive city, the energy it brings cannot be denied. And if you look closely enough, you can still find glimpses of Chongqing's more modest past.

Chongqing images

Chongqing is centered on the meeting point of the Jialing and Yangtze rivers. At the tip is a park where you can walk down and see the greenish water. From here, it's only a few hours downstream to the Three Gorges Dam.

 

chongqing cablecar

Perhaps the most scenic way to cross the two rivers is by cable car. Tickets are RMB 5 one way, though a clear view through the Chongqing air is never guaranteed.

 

temple chongqing

In the middle of downtown, Arhat Temple is a welcome break from the jackhammers and cement trucks. A highlight of the temple grounds is a hall filled with statues of different gods in various poses.

 

street in chongqing

For more cultural pursuits, check out Tank Lofts in the Sichuan Academy of Fine Arts, located at 130 Huangjueping Zhengjie. A former tank factory, it's been remade into galleries and artist studios.

The neighborhood around the Academy is also worth exploring. Wanting to create an arts district, the Chinese government invited graffiti artists to make designs for the buildings. Now all the surrounding apartments are covered with their creations.

 

chongqing hot pot

If all the art leaves you hungry, you can try the one can't-miss dish: Chongqing hot pot. Spicy hot pot allegedly originated in Chongqing, so the local variety is the most authentic, but also the spiciest.

If you can't handle the peppers at Lao Wei Dao, at the back gate of the Academy, make sure you wear your best good poker face so locals won’t think you're a wimp.

 

chongqing pictures

To cool down after dinner head to Jiao Tong Teahouse, located on Huangjueping Zhengjie some 500 meters down from the Academy.

While it may not have such luxuries as heating or bathrooms, you can’t go wrong at RMB 2 a cup. It’s not easy to find, as it's in the basement of a China Mobile store.

 

street scene in chongqing china

For an experience of old Chongqing, visit the Shi Ba Ti ("18 Steps") neighborhood. It has survived so far, but with just about every single building there sporting the Chinese character 拆(tear down), its days appear numbered.

 

street action in chongqing
More than any tourist attraction, the most fun thing to do in Chongqing is simply walk the streets.

Sean Hanratty is a photographer originally from Baltimore, Maryland. When not working he can be found on his bike going all over the place, including an Oreo and PB&J fueled trek to Suzhou.

Read more about Sean Hanratty
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