Gallery: The crumbling Buddhist kingdom of Bagan, Myanmar

After two years of exploring Southeast Asian temples, nothing stands out in my memory like the ruins of Bagan.

Formerly known as "Pagan," Bagan was founded in 849 AD and in only a few hundred years became the heart of a huge Buddhist kingdom.

Bagan was sacked in the 13th century, a casualty of the Mongol invasion. It's been in a state of slow decay ever since, succumbing to fire, earthquakes and looting.

All that remains today of King Aniruddha’s sprawling empire are the crumbling ruins stretched across the parched, flat plains of central Myanmar.

For those who find Cambodia’s Angkor too busy or the wats of Chiang Mai too shiny, Bagan is the perfect antidote.

My Journey

For seven days I wake up at dawn to explore the maze of temples by bicycle, with map in hand and almost no tourists in sight. The temples are filled with colorful frescoes, gilded Buddhas and a few Myanmar characters.

 

Break of Dawn in Bagan

I’m not a morning person, but motivating myself to see these temples at dawn is no difficult task. My first choice: climbing Buledi to see the sunrise. I arrive in time to catch the outline of the temple in the morning light.

 

Balloon over Bagan

Htilominlo Paho at daybreak, with one of the many balloons that start to rise with the sun.

 

View from Buledi

Atop Buledi -- patches of morning fog still lingering on the ground and the bright sky and outline of distant temples make for the perfect introduction to Bagan.

 

Attaboy!

I find this Burmese child perched on the edge of Buledi. He's one of only a few not to try and sell me a painting or ask for coins; he merely waves at me and runs off down a dusty road.

 

A perfect contrast

Part of what makes exploring Bagan so much fun is that the outside of a temple does not give any indication as to what is found inside its crumbling walls.

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