Ratchaburi: Thailand's unlikely art getaway
At the Ched Samien Market, vendors set up their wares to sell to "All About Arts" patrons. Well off the tourist trail, the small Thai province of Ratchaburi has never enjoyed appearances in many guidebooks. Nor has it been considered a very worthy stop for tour itineraries.
That all began to change in 2008 when famed Patravadi Theatre director Manop Meejamrat, an award-winning contemporary dancer and Ratchaburi native, awakened the city’s love for music and turned it into the latest weekend arts spot. Manop’s “All About Arts” event is today a hot ticket for Bangkok daytrippers, taking place by the scenic embankment of Mae Klong River on the last weekend of every month at the 12-year-old Ched Samien Market, about an hour away from the city by car.
From 4pm, locals put up their stalls and open their shop houses, selling the same wares of their grandparents’ time, from household knickknacks to rare Thai cuisine. There’s no pretense here; things look, smell and taste the way they always have.
The children open the evening's events by playing traditional melodies on their “kims” (Thai harps). Seniors then take their turn around 6pm. The superstar of the community is Granny La-Or, 84, who with her peers offers performances they learned when they were young, such as lullaby chanting, traditional dances and even a ghost possession show.
That's right, ghost possession. Audiences will wage internal battles with their sense of logic to debate how a 60-year-old lady can be stronger than two younger men if she isn’t really possessed. It is a fun but spooky experience visitors should check out regardless of their skepticism.
After sunset, the head of the district joins a group of students to rock out with a mix of traditional and modern music equipment including a traditional xylophone, drum and gong with guitar, bass and drum. On some nights there are contemporary dances.
“These locals, they love their own community, neighbors and family,” says Manop. “We don’t pay them a baht. They are here out of their own will. Every one of them wants to help promote this town and they all have an artist within them. We even have motorcycle racing kids as part of our crew.”
Manop’s All About Arts program has become so successful in its two years of running that the artist recently launched a new version, titled “All About Arts in the Garden”, which takes place the first, second and third weekends of the month, starting from this month. It’s at the Suan Silp Baan Din, Manop’s arts center and homestay. From 10am in the morning, visitors can take part in talks and workshops that focus on Thai arts, including painting, sculpture and handicrafts. Musical performances start at 4pm.
