Street chef: Le Meridien's 'Nine' Tengkanokkul pounds the pavement for BKK's best bites
After years working as a chef in Australia, Nachart 'Nine' Tengkanokkul recently returned to his native Bangkok to take over the kitchens at the recently opened Le Meridien Hotel. He's also returned to the local custom of eating on the street.
We joined him for a morning meal at the newly renovated Samyan market and collected his opinions as we sampled yum pla duk foo (fried catfish salad), stir-fried young kale with crispy pork, stir-fried seafood and kanom ba bin ("very mad desert"), which are grilled cakes made of grated coconut, coconut milk, sticky rice flour, sugar and shredded coconut meat.
Why street food is so good
''Somehow on the road, these dishes are better. Everything is very fresh, simple, straightforward. And it's priced reasonably. Thais eat very late, and sometimes it's the only chance we have to spend time with friends."
Best 'hoods, best food
"I like the Rama 9 Issarn carts for the staples and 'gung ten,' which are small, live shrimp. Live shrimp are one of my favorites -- the shrimp is so sweet and the sauce is hot and spicy. The flavors come together very nicely. When the shrimp arrive at the table, shake the container and wait five to ten minutes while the shrimp go to sleep. Open and eat quickly, as they jump.
"I also love cockles from the local market. Clean them in salt water, give them a quick steam and serve with Thai spicy sauce. And mangoes, when they're at that in-between sour-and-sweet ripening stages and served with chili or plum salt. Pair it all with a Chang beer."
Thai restaurant litmus test
"Try the yum pla duk foo -- it's a very common salad, known as 'nonsense salad,' because it's so simple and common. If you want to know whether a restaurant is good, this is what you should try."
Hotel chefs vs. street chefs
"Street cooking is easier, there's no need to to worry about hygiene. Hotels take more care.''
