The once gritty Khaosan Road now home to boutique hotels

The classic Khaosan Road hovel-like hotel has grown into something rather more sophisticated than its flophouse forebears.

With ‘boutique’ now a synonym for almost every fleapit dive of minimal size and charm, it’s wise to be wary of the term down the Khaosan. That said, Banglamphu, in central Bangkok, has gone through serious gentrification of late. This gauntlet -- run by every 19-year-old backpacker worthy of the name -– is now home to a handful of heavenly havens that offer a respite when the constant bombardment of croaking frogs, horrible hairstyles and repetitive beats wears you down.

Here we pick six of the best places to beat the bustle.

Rooms at the Dang Derm feature all mod cons.

Dang Derm

The latest hotel to join in the Khaosan’s accommodation upgrade frenzy, the Dang Derm, though not yet finished, is already promising to stand out from the crowd. Offering a rooftop pool/jacuzzi, wood floors and clean, spacious rooms with DVD players, fridge, flat-screen TV and beautiful bathrooms, it’s located right in the heart of the fun, making a mockery of its less glamorous neighbours.

Khaosan Road (opposite D&D Inn)
Rooms from 1,100 baht
www.dangderm.com

A shiny new hotel, right on the river’s edge, the Navalai offers an alternative vision of Thailand to travelers whose idea of “exploring the authentic” conjours images of hikers wrestling backpacks down the rickety staircases. Plush but picturesque, there’s not a speck of Khaosan grime in sight (nor fishermen’s pants or flip-flops -- aside from designer ones). The Aquatini riverside restaurant/bar and rooftop pool/bar offer an elegant break from backpacker grittiness.

45/1-2 Phra Arthit Road
Tel: +66 (0) 2 280 9955
Rooms from 2,000 baht
www.navalai.com

The Baan Chantra offers a quiet respite from Khaosan Road.

Antique, boutique chic, the Baan Chantra offers all the cuteness and curios of a traditional Thai wooden house.  Built in 1936, complete with shuttered secret rooms, tucked-away staircases and cosy corners, visitors will experience impeccable Thai hospitality, including exquisite homemade breakfasts. While the beds aren’t the biggest or softest at this price, it’s a minor concession. A reassuringly serene 10-minute stroll from all the hullabaloo of the main road, it is charming and intimate, the perfect antidote to the Khaosan zoo.

120/1 Samsen Rd
+66 (0) 2 698 6988
Rooms from 2,700 baht

This hard-to-find but not-so-well-kept secret seems to be on the lips of every style-savvy traveler in town these days. Like an artfully crafted Thai dollhouse, Phranakorn Nornlen’s beautiful attention to detail and hand-painted décor offers old-world charm, airy rooms, wooden shutters, a divine garden café, rooftop organic farm/garden, and plenty of space to take it easy.

46 Thewet, Soi 1
Tel: +66 (0) 2 628 8600
Rooms from 2,200 baht
www.phranakorn-nornlen.com

The Old Bangkok Inn is eco-friendly and elegant.

Bijou but beautiful, this hidden treasure offers Alice in Wonderland levels of stylish, yet cozy, excess. Eco-friendly chic meets Old World opulence, the Inn has been much celebrated as a lotus rising from the swamp of accommodation choices in Banglamphu. Not just a pretty face (who doesn’t love an outdoor bathroom in the tropics?) it also prides itself on its service, social conscience and serious ecological aspirations.

607 Pra Sumen Road
+66 (0) 2 629 1787
Rooms from 3,200 baht
www.oldbangkokinn.com

Probably Banglamphu’s best bargain with real traditional traveler appeal, this rambling wooden house even has an old-school dorm. The swankier backpacker might want to check out the penthouse –- the ultimate in laidback shabby-chic. In Thewet, most famous for its flower markets, this stretch of guesthouses is almost a mini Khaosan in the making and only minutes away from the backpacker hub by boat.

37 Sri Ayutthaya Road, Soi 16
+66 (0) 2 28 2497
Rooms from 400 baht
www.shantilodge.com