Photo feature: The Bangkok department store that time forgot

Though it’s undoubtedly a part of Bangkok’s history, today, very few people have even heard of department store Nightingale-Olympic. It’s not on any maps, and its weather-worn 1930s façade doesn’t offer much to catch the attention of the passerby. 

But if you look a bit closer you’ll start to notice that something isn’t quite right; the mannequins in the front windows, flaking with age, model grimy, shop-soiled fashions from the 1960s. Inside is a building seemingly stuck in a different era; products manufactured 30, 40, some maybe even 50 years ago, still on display for sale and in pristine, unopened packaging. 

Nightingale-Olympic, Thailand’s first ever department store, was the flagship of a chain of shops in the city. It was founded in 1936 by immigrant’s son Matti Niyomvanich. His sister Aroon, now in her late 80s, manages the store today.    

In its prime the store employed nearly 100 staff, kept occupied by a constant flow of affluent patrons. Nightingale-Olympic was thriving; its reputation was such that there was even a mail order service for provincial customers. 

“Only high society people used to shop here”, says Boonchauy Meekhlay, who has worked in Nightingale’s lingerie department, selling corsets and lace bodices, for over half a century. “Now things are different -- there are so many other shops now.”

She is referring to the city’s trademark gigantic malls -- now the contemporary Bangkokian’s retail venues of choice, which have signalled the decline of many smaller, family-owned stores like this. 

Much has changed in the area in 74 years. The wooden shop-houses across the road have been replaced by a large shopping centre, the trams which used to rattle over the intersection nearby are now long gone. But today, Nightingale-Olympic remains defiantly open -- with half a dozen staff, and decade's-worth of unsold stock on display. 

In the display cases, turtleneck golfing sweaters. Along the walls, obscure sporting equipment (“For the Thrill of a Lifetime…Go Bow Hunting!”). On the counter, a stack of tennis magazines with John McEnroe on the cover. 

People tend to be divided on their opinions about Nightingale-Olympic, says Darunee Weeranon, head of the sports department where these odd items can be purchased.

“Some people find it really interesting. Others don’t like it, they just walk past and never come in. They just think it’s an old place, like a junk shop."

It’s difficult to fathom how Nightingale-Olympic manages to keep afloat financially; during our recent visit we see only one customer, a lady in her 80s at the beauty counter.

It’s here at this counter, explains cosmetics saleslady Jidtra Daoruaeng, that Nightingale takes most of its profits, with a handful of loyal customers returning year after year to buy their trusted products.

“The things we sell here are very good quality. New brands come and go, but the old brands always remain. Many of my customers have been using these products all their lives -- and the next generation in their family then does the same.” 

Talking to the staff, it becomes clear that, more than anything, they value the relationships that they have kept up over the years.    

“We’re all like a family here, both staff and customers,” Ms Meekhlay says.  

Nightingale-Olympic may not appeal to everyone in terms of its appearance, but its values, long forgotten elsewhere, are to be cherished.

Pasuk Gongphonphrum, 66, is next in line to take over the running of Nightingale-Olympic. Barring a few minor renovations, she’s going to keep it exactly as it is. (More photos below.)

“I want to preserve it for future generations,” she says. “Most people have never seen a place like this before.”

Getting there

Nightingale-Olympic is located at 70 Triphet Khwang Wang Road, just off of Pahurat Road. Chao Phraya Express Pier: Saphun Phut