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Buddhist amulets: Little keys to the Thai spirit

Seeking wild sex? Protection from enemies? Bangkok's Buddhist amulet market has you covered
 
Bangkok Buddhist amulet market People hoping for extra protection wear several amulets simultaneously on their necklaces.

A two-headed baby 'zombie' is the most terrifying thing you can buy in Bangkok's riverside Buddhist amulet market, but if you promise to feed it every day, the undead spirit could become your loyal slave and protect you against misfortune.

Buddhist amulet market
Several magazines published in Thailand are devoted to news about amulets.
"In Thailand, the lowest level of believers buy these zombies and other amulets like this," says Phramaha Watcharapung Kaviwungso, a saffron-robed Buddhist monk warily examining the grotesque doll-like totem.

"The next highest level of believers buy amulets which have the faces of Buddhist monks. The highest level of believers are people like me, who believe only in Buddha."

Most Thais are Buddhists, but they also mix a bewildering slew of other beliefs -- including Hindu, animist and superstitions -- into their spiritual outlook.

Buddha was not into amulets, and advised followers to ignore such illusions. But today's Thais surround themselves with as much protection as possible by wearing, carrying or keeping at home one or more small amulets.

An amulet for every occasion

According to believers, amulets can bring good luck, true love, wild sex, cold cash or exquisite relief from obscure personal problems.

Buddhist amulet market
This round amulet portrays Hinduism's elephant-headed Lord Ganesh.
The pieces come in all styles and shapes, made of metal, wood, bone or plaster, and can include sacred ash from incense, colored dust from a temple's bricks, human hair or other material.

Some portray Buddha, or a famous senior monk, in bas-relief. Others depict a mythical creature or cryptic script, often in Khmer language, which may be indecipherable.

Thailand is one of the world's biggest producers, sellers and exporters of amulets, which are available in every Thai city and village. Some men, including tough guys in danger of being killed, wear a necklace of several big, heavy amulets in a pretentious form of Buddhist bling.

Antique or rare amulets can fetch more than 3.3 million baht. Most Thais, however, usually get their amulets at a Buddhist temple after making a small donation, or by rummaging among humble stalls where prices begin at five or 10 baht.

The stories explaining most amulets are often half-remembered, and can change depending upon who is describing the charm and its powers.

Invisibility and protection

The two-headed baby zombie sells for about 200 baht at Bert Bu's shop, in Bangkok's main amulet market near Phra Chan Road, next to Thammasat University, along the Chao Phraya River. It is made of 'pressed powder,' hardened to form the shape of Thailand's legendary Khu Mon Tong.

According to some legends, Khu Mon Tong is a baby who died, perhaps stillborn. His loving father fed Khu Mon Tong's corpse, and successfully reanimated its spirit, which gratefully protected the parent. Anyone who buys a Khu Mon Tong amulet and diligently feeds it a morsel of food every day, offers it toys and calls it "my son," can hope to be protected from enemies.

Some Buddhist amulets can be sinister things. Fanatics have created Khu Mon Tong amulets by using the crushed skull of a baby, or with the dripping oil from a roasted infant.

Buddhist amulet market
A buyer uses a small magnifying glass to scrutinize an amulet.
A much more popular and peaceful amulet shows a faceless Buddha sitting cross-legged, atop a layered plinth.

The rectangular amulet, often called a 'Phra Somdet,' is easy to produce from a plaster-like substance, and is frequently given to devotees at Buddhist temples. On the reverse side, it may include the name of the temple, or the monk who manufactured it, or other information.

One version has a small fish bone embedded in the back, which some people believe bestows special powers, and costs a mere 10 baht. Another amulet is illustrated with a large ship, and is sometimes called a 'Krom Ma Luang Chumporn.' It is said to protect people during ocean voyages.

A chubby cross-legged man, covering his face with both hands, depicts a devout monk who resembled the Lord Buddha. People mistakenly worshipped him, thinking he was actually Buddha, until he hid his face so no one could see him, according to believers.

The amulet is called a 'Phra Phid Ta,' which translates as 'monk closed eyes.' Possess this amulet, and you will remain virtually invisible to your opponents, they say.

Just superstition? Wearers swear by their amulets

Professional collectors will whip out a tiny magnifying glass and scrutinize an amulet's details to determine if it is genuine or one of the many forgeries offered to unsuspecting buyers. To create a bestseller, monks pray intensely over a batch of fresh amulets, and perform other acts to infuse the item with spiritual functions.

Buddhist amulet market
These dinner plate-sized icons show "Phra Pid Ta," though most collectors buy smaller amulets that can be worn on a necklace.

Huge fortunes are made from selling amulets, prompting allegations of corrupt monks and temples raking in massive profits, which are unaccounted for and tax-free. Complaints are also frequently voiced about the blatant commercialization of Thai-style Buddhism -- and its degeneration into mindless superstition -- that tarnishes Buddha's lofty ideals.

But believers swear that their favorite amulet saved their life during a car crash or violent attack. To boost morale, Thailand's military has even handed out amulets to its Buddhist soldiers fighting in the south against Muslim separatists.

Thailand's amulet bazaars include shops selling tiny plastic or glass containers -- ringed by metal, silver or gold -- to enshrine an amulet while wearing it on a necklace or storing it at home. Rules to obey while wearing an amulet include removing it during sexual intercourse and keeping it off the floor and away from people's feet.

Thieves target temples, shops and homes if they think they can steal expensive amulets, creating an irony in which 'protective amulets' need protection. People who complain that their amulet failed, however, are usually told that it works only if the person who possesses it is a pious Buddhist, creating a marvelous loophole to avoid refunds.

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I have hardly read such a misinformed article on Thai Buddhist amulets ever inmy life. I am considered and expert in the field of Thai Buddhist and Animist arts, philosophy and culture, and find this article rather poorly researched and obviously made by a person without the necessary fluency or time spent with Thai people to be able to cover this topic without offending Thai people and wrongly documenting certain data. Although it is true that superstition and animistic folk beliefs have cause the proletarian sector of Thai society to misunderstand Buddhism and the reasons for the existence of amulets, the information given here about particular kinds of amulet to greater extent fals and erroneous. The story about Pra Pid Ta is not the case. The claim that an amulet with a ship on it is a "Krom Ma Luang Chumporn" (actually pronouced "Grom Luwong Chumporn" is not the case. Grom Luwong Chumporn (กรมหลวงชุมพร), was a Royal Noble standing 28th in line to the throne of King Rama 5 of Thailand. He was a navy Admiral, and an apprentice to the famous Magic monk Luang Phu Sukh of Wat Makham Tao - he was the forst ever Thai sailor to sail a battleship across the ocean singlehandedly from a far country, he built sattahib port in Chonburi (Pattaya), and in the first world war, was responsible for capturing 6 enemy ships. All amulets which bear his name must have his image emblazoned on them, some may have the image of the ship he sailed back across the ocean after purchasing, but his image should always be on the front or back of the amulet. His birthplace was had Sairee in Chumporn, which is whay his title bears the name of Chumporn. The Pra Pid Ta amulet represents "Pra Jao Khao Umong" (Lord Buddha entering the tunnel" which in turn really means a meditatir entering Samadhi and attaining Nirodha - Samadhi means concentrative absorbtion in an object of focus, leading to Nirodha which is the cutting of all fetters which hold a sentient being in suffering states of consciousness. It is also representative of the five Dhyani Buddhas. If you wish to attribute further meanings, then yes the fact that the hands cover the eyes (and in six handed versions, the ears and other orifices of the body), then it is referred to as "Maha Ud" magic - the word Maha means "great" and the word Ud means "block" - the fact that the orifices are blocked is believed to cause firearms to jam and not discharge when fired. In addition, the Pra Pid ta amulet is also referred to as "Pra Pid Ta Maha Laap" Laap means fortune, so this amulet is alleged to bring good fortune and riches. As in any country, common folk have different interpretations to religious beliefs and values as that held by the educated sector of the Society. In the same way that Christians believe that a cross around their neck or abouve their bed will protect them from evil, so do Thai Buddhist feel more at ease with an amulet around their necks. The real reason which amulets were made was as "Puttanussati" (a reminder of the Buddha and his teachings), which in turn would cause the wearer tomake an effort to maintain the 5 moral precepts. I would love to expand on the History and the underlying influences and factors which circumnambulate the topic of Thai Buddhist amulets which i am considering writing a complete article about for submission to CNNGo for publishing. The above article has made me realize that there is still a massive gap in understanding between the Asian and Western mindset, perhaps due to the Language barrier.

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