Pickup trucks? Check. Cowboy hats? Check. Questionable music? Every Thailand veteran already knows the answer to that one.
Every May, rocket festivals are held across Northeast Thailand (Isaan) and Laos at the start of the rainy season as a fertility ritual. But Bun Bangfai, held in the town of Yasothon, is by far the largest and craziest, with visitors and returning Isaan migrants streaming in from Bangkok and the rest of Thailand to check out the action.
This year's event takes place from May 11-15. If it's anything like last year's, expect an endlessly entertaining cast of characters, gathered together in Yasothon to drink, dance, leer and cheer at the explosive capacity of over 120 kilos of gunpowder used to fire each homemade rocket.
Here are seven essential albeit strange rocket festival components that help cement Bun Bangfai's explosive status as one of Thailand's wildest events.
1. The party animals
The festival kicks off with Raw Friday, a night of unrestrained revelry. Sound stages, equipped with colossal speakers turned all the way up to 11, are lined up along Yasothon’s main street, and revelers stay out until daybreak.
2. The performers
Saturday is the day of the parade, featuring colorful floats and traditional dance and music by performers from villages of the region.
3. The Toad King, aka The Buddha
Giant toads are prominent on several floats. Bun Bangfai legend has it that the Buddha, during his incarnation as the Toad King, defeated the King of the Sky to end a drought that had lasted seven years, seven months and seven days.
4. Mum
Even more ubiquitous at Bun Bangfai is the face of Mum Jokmok, one of Thailand’s biggest comedians and Yasothon’s most famous son.
5. A very un-Disney princess
The rocket festivals are an opportunity to let loose before the grueling rice-planting months ahead. Which means many engage in hedonistic behavior that is usually frowned upon by rural Thai society.
6. Insects
Bun Bangfai is an opportunity for visitors to sample Isaan cuisine in its heartland, from the mouth-watering laab muu (pork salad) to fried insects, which are more of an acquired taste.
7. Space Cowboys
The centerpiece of the Yasothon Rocket Festival is the racketeer showdown on Sunday which puts the bang in Bun Bangfai (sorry, contractually obligated pun).
The rockets are judged according to height achieved, how straight they fly, and the “beauty” of their smoke trail. The winning team takes home almost US$1,000, while a third-place win barely covers the cost of building the rocket.
Competitors whose rockets fail to take off are forced to wallow in the mud, but even that won’t stop them from enjoying the sight of a new heavenly trailblazer.
Lots of noise, lots of smoke and lots of fun.
When the rockets take off and the crowd rejoices, it's pretty clear that the money is not exactly the point.
The show is not without its dangers. Spectators who stand too close are subjected to billowing smoke and fumes, while injuries are common.
Getting there: From Bangkok, buses depart daily from the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2) for Yasothon. Call +66 (0) 2 936 2852-66 or visit www.transport.co.th for more information.
There are no direct flights to Yasothon but you can fly from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani and catch a bus for the 1000-kilometer trip to Yasothon.
First published May 2011, updated May 2012
