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by Karla Cripps, Bangkok Editor
2 November, 2009



   
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The best -- and worst -- places to spend Loy Krathong

Our tips for making the most of this crowded city-wide celebration of light
 
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This promotional video for Loy Krathong explains the meaning behind the annual event with some great footage of past celebrations.

It’s Loy Krathong, a day to float your troubles away by transferring them to a pretty little raft covered in flowers, incense and candles. What’s not conducive to self-reflection and renewal is elbowing your way through the city-wide stifling crowds to find a tiny space for five seconds of contemplation surrounded by thousands of other Bangkokians with the same idea.

Play it safe – make a reservation

Pretty much every riverside restaurant has a Loy Krathong celebration on, including the big five-star hotels. And yes, they jack up the prices to take advantage of all the Loy Krathong revelers that can't bear to face the crowds.

If possible, try and find a restaurant between the Krungthep and Krungthon bridges on the Chao Phraya river. A stunning procession of 14 boats decorated with light bulbs will pass between the two from 6pm to 8pm.

Want to splurge? Our top pick is Flow, at the Hilton Milennium (123 Charoen Nakom Road, take the free ferry Hilton from the Saphan Taksin BTS station, though keep in mind the pier will be crowded. tel +66 (0)2 442 2000).

This buffet is easily one of the best in the city for its diversity, which includes sushi, Mediterranean, Thai, Italian and a truly amazing cheese room. The price is 4,200 baht per person (half price for guests 6-12), which includes a free drink and krathong to float. Thai dancers and a live band are set to entertain.

Temples and parks

Wat Rakang Kositaram on the Thonburi bank of the river and the sure-to-be-crowded Wat Arun are among the popular temples holding fairs on Monday night and give a far more authentic experience than a table at a five-star restaurant. Both can be reached from the Bangkok side of the river by catching a boat at the Tha Tien Pier.

Though still crowded, the large ponds at Bangkok's parks offer a less assaulting experience than the Chao Phraya River's piers. The Bangkok Metropolitan Administration will keep all 21 public parks open until midnight, so it's wise to head down there after 10pm and float your krathong in semi-serene surroundings.

Our top pick is Chatuchak Park on Paholyothin Road  (BTS: Mochit). It will be crowded but not as bad as downtown’s Benjakitti Park on Ratchadapisek Road by the Queen Sirikit Convention Centre, Lumpini Park (MRT: Lumpini) or Benjasiri Park (BTS: Phrom Phong).

Where to avoid

Do not go to Saphan Taksin. Trust us. Foot paths to the river stretching all the way from the BTS station inch along slower than traffic on Sukhumvit at 6pm on a Friday night. 

When you finally do make it to the river, you’ll likely resort to giving your krathong to one of the guys standing there with a long stick-like device to lower it into the water for you from one of the pier’s higher points rather than battle for a rare space at river level to do it yourself.

And then there are the Loy Krathong bandits we reported on earlier, lurking in the water to ravage your quaint little float as you look on in sadness.

Almost equally as unpleasant is Santichaiprakarn Park, on Pra Arthit Road. Add hundreds of clueless backpackers looking for some cultural enlightenment to the above mix and you get a motley crew of scam artists, confused tourists, university kids and a traffic jam that won’t clear till well after the last krathong has been loy’d.




   
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Tags: Thai culture, Thai celebrations, Loy Krathong, Bangkok parks, Bangkok festivals
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