Streets of your City: A walk through Bangkok's historic Thanon Tanao

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Only steps from the gaudy, rowdy backpacker strip of Khao San Road is Thanon Tanao Road, one of the city’s best-preserved streets and a window into the Bangkok of yesteryear. 

Much of the area is lined with antique Chinese-style shop houses, many of which hold shops and restaurants that have been doing business for decades.

There’s not much in the way of shopping along Thanon Tanao, but the food is wonderful -- particularly during the daytime -- and there are a few sights that warrant a stop. Start your walk at Si Kak Intersection, where Thanon Tanao and Thanon Bamrung Mueang cross paths.

 

 

1. Religious Shops

Along Thanon Bamrung Muang and the southern end of Thanon Tanao are several shops selling Buddha statues, monk articles and other religious paraphernalia.

Thanon Bamrung Muang and Th Tanao, open 8am-5pm

 

2. Poj Spa Kar

Claiming to be Bangkok's oldest restaurant, Poj Spa Kar (pronounced phote sapaa kahn) still prepares dishes following former palace recipes. Try the delicious lemongrass omelet.

443 Thanon Tanao. Tel: +66 (0)2 222 2686. Open Monday to Friday, 10:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-9pm. Saturday-Sunday, 11am-9:30pm

 

3. Chote Chitr

This tiny, longstanding restaurant is the darling of visiting foreign media. The kitchen isn't entirely consistent, but when on, dishes such as the mee krob or grilled banana blossom flower salad are among the best in town.

146 Thanon Phraeng Phuthon. Tel: +66 2 221 4082. Open daily, 10am-10pm

 

4. Phraeng Phuthon

The site of a former minor royal palace, Chinese-style shophouses were eventually built during the reign of Rama V (1868-1910), providing this neighborhood off Thanan Tanao with a unique, old-school Bangkok atmosphere.

 

5. Paa Thong Ko Sawoey

This tiny shophouse is home to the city's best vendors making paa thong ko, fingers of deep-fried dough. Served with a pandanus-flavoured coconut custard, they're a wonderful old-school treat.

540 Thanon Tanao. Tel: +66 2 222 2635. Open daily, 6am-11am and 5-11pm.

 

6. Rad Na 40 Years

This shopfront restaurant has been serving rad na, noodles in a thick gravy, and phat si iw, noodles fried with Chinese kale and egg, for more than 40 years. Hence the name.

Thanon Tanao. Tel: +66 2 622 1910. Open daily, 9am-9.30pm

 

7. Kaiyang Boran

This tidy air-conditioned restaurant is an unlikely home for Isaan (Northeastern Thai) specialties such as grilled chicken and papaya salad.

474-476 Thanon Tanao. Tel: +66 2 622 2349. Open daily, 10am-10pm

    

8. Chao Por Sua Shrine

This Chinese shrine, dating back to 1834, hosts a near endless stream of devotees leaving offerings such as oranges and fatty strips of pork. To the left-hand side of the entrance is a stage where ngiw, traditional Chinese performances, are occasionally held.

 

9. Wat Mahannapharam Worawihan

Built during the reign of Rama III (1824-1851), this temple features palpable Chinese influences in its exterior and two antique Buddha statues.

Open daily 7am-5pm

 

10. Lamead Khanom Buang

This vendor has been selling delicious khanom buang, taco-like snacks, for several decades. The snacks come in both sweet (yellow from the addition of sweetened duck egg threads) and savory (orange) form.

286 Thanon Tanao. Tel: +66 2 224 2117. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:30am-5pm.

 

11. October 14th Memorial

Built in 2001, this memorial is dedicated to the protesters who lost their lives during the pro-democracy protests of 1973. A summary of the events, which centered around the nearby Democracy Monument, as well as numerous photos, can be seen here.