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by Alan Morison
26 December, 2009



   
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Phuket post-tsunami: A second wave of greed?

Five years after the tsunami, resident Alan Morison considers how things have changed, and he isn't happy
 
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Phuket, sprawling, sensual, and more than a little bit selfish, had a chance to change after the tsunami of 2004. It did not. At least, not in the right way.

If anything, five years later it is more sprawling, more sensual and more selfish. This is not to say that tourists flock to Thailand's most popular tropical island destination and don't have a good time. They do.


Some small beaches are still holiday havens, while underwater, there's still plenty to see.

The diving and snorkelling are still excellent, the beaches are among the best in the world at the right time of the year, and everyone loves Thai hospitality, the food and an elephant ride.

Yet there is no one, single Phuket. Helicopter ride to a scintillating wellness destination on a more remote island? Yes, certainly ma'am. Indian wedding for three days for 300? By all means, sir.

There's a Phuket to suit every wallet and purse, from those who can afford the steep prices and the equally steep climb to the perfect hillside villa (with private sunset and sunrise infinity pools) to the buck-conscious backpacker.

It's just that ... well, it could have all been so much better.

Starting over?


After the tsunami, with the beaches washed clean, amid the clamor of rebuilding along the foreshores and with the best wishes of the world ringing just as loudly, Phuket had the choice of starting over.

Keep the beaches of Patong, Kamala, Karon and Kata natural and beautiful, some said. Invest for the future in a proper, efficient public transport system. Turn the place into an international holiday hub that will make Thailand proud.

Officials opted instead to keep the extortionist jet-skis, and the beach lounges, the beach vendors, and the poorly-equipped high-fare tuk-tuk taxis that clog the best seafront parking spots and charge double Thailand's minimum daily wage for a trip of a couple of kilometers.

Phuket kept the jet skis while other places banned them. On the roads, tuk-tuk drivers often charge double the minimum daily wage for one trip.

There are now too many tuk-tuk drivers, and not enough tourists choose this inefficient, expensive form of transport. Tall people cannot even see the views as they travel in these odd contraptions.

The long-term benefits from this short-term thinking are hard to figure. A tuk-tuk ride in Phuket will cost at least 10 times the price of an equivalent journey in Bangkok.

While tuk-tuks in Bangkok have three wheels and tuk-tuks on Phuket have four, the extra wheel hardly seems to justify such a dramatic increase in the fare. Many residents are appalled but simply shrug their shoulders and say: "This is Thailand."

Island of lost opportunities


To put it simply, the world's generosity in restoring Phuket after the tsunami, in returning as tourists, and in making the island an internationally renowned destination, has not been matched by Phuket.

It has been met with greed.

Phuket today is not so much an island of lost souls as an island of lost opportunities. Nobody would seriously suggest that the island needs a second tsunami so it can get it right, but it wouldn't do any harm to pretend. A fresh start is still needed.

Yet there's joy every day on Phuket in significantly touching ways. The rip-offs have not diminished the underlying beauty of the place, or the majority of its people.


Visitors came back quicky and continue to visit Patong. The scene (left) far different from Patong beach in the wake of the tsunami (right).

A small girl glides past on a motorcycle, holding a large leaf over her head to ward off the sun. A restaurant proprietor runs in pursuit with a five baht piece, left as a tip, crying: ''Hey, you left your change.'' A Korean tourist in a bikini writes ''I love Phuket'' on the sand, and means it.

At its best, Phuket is delightful. It's just that these days, the best of the old Phuket can be found more frequently in other places, and at fairer prices.

North and east of the island, in Phang Nga and Krabi, a region that property people are beginning to call ''Greater Phuket,'' some of the classiest resorts in the world continue to bob up on a coastline that is hard to top anywhere.

Faced with the same post-tsunami decision as Phuket, officials in Phang Nga and Krabi decided to ban beach lounges, jet-skis, and beach vendors. There are one or two tuk-tuks, no more.

Time and future tourist traffic may prove they made a wise decision.

Wolfgang Meusburger, general manager of the Holiday Inn in Phuket's built-up, franchised and fractious Patong, confesses that some guests still come off the planes expecting to find a charming rural village under coconut palms.

Rather than have them complain about everything for their entire stay, he refunds their money and packs them off to more remote corners of the region.

The trend, too, is for tourists to spend a few days on Phuket then a few more in the more relaxed and natural environment in Phang Nga or Krabi. And if you really must try a tuk-tuk, do it in Bangkok. It's a whole less expensive. 

Check out Alan's Insider's Guide to the best of Greater Phuket for his tips on making the most of a trip to Phuket.




   
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Alan Morison is an award-winning journalist and in the wake of the tsunami was one of the few reporters permitted to view the forensic autopsy process aimed at identifying nameless victims. He lives in Phuket and in 2008 founded the regional news and information site, phuketwan.com.

Read more about Alan Morison
Tags: tourism, Thailand beaches, Thai islands, Phuket travel, Phuket
user comments and reviews (5)
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rene2
28 December, 2009
I have been lucky to ravel to Thailand on numerous occasions as its only a short trip from my adopted home of Hong Kong, I must point out that Phuket is different than other parts of Thailand, In Chiang Mai they are more relaxed and not to much after your money, in Bangkok they play a hard bargaining game but you always seem to be able to cut a deal that satisfies both parties. Phuket on the other hand has more of a take it or leave it mentality, its like the whole village came together in a meeting and agreed to floss the tourists to a point that it ruins your holiday mood. Its a real pity and a real loss for the people of Phuket in the long run.
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rene2
28 December, 2009
I have been lucky to ravel to Thailand on numerous occasions as its only a short trip from my adopted home of Hong Kong, I must point out that Phuket is different than other parts of Thailand, In Chiang Mai they are more relaxed and not to much after your money, in Bangkok they play a hard bargaining game but you always seem to be able to cut a deal that satisfies both parties. Phuket on the other hand has more of a take it or leave it mentality, its like the whole village came together in a meeting and agreed to floss the tourists to a point that it ruins your holiday mood. Its a real pity and a real loss for the people of Phuket in the long run.
Johnnie99
27 December, 2009
Wow .. I did not realise that there are serious other residents who see that Thai people are selfish and out for anything they can get. Amazing Thailand indeed - Unseen Thailand should remain just that. And they have their grasping ways to blame.
Ralfie
26 December, 2009
I agree 100%. Many parts of Thailand have lost much of their charm. I first visited Thailand about 10 years ago. Enjoyed every minute of every day/night. Wasn't ripped off once. I went two years ago to Bangkok and then to Phuket (against my better judgement but my girlfriend wanted to go) and it was barely enjoyable. From the taxis and tuk-tuks and street people trying to scam you in Bangkok, to the lack of reasonable priced (or available) transportation on Phuket, to bus proprietors outright lying and deceiving me so that I almost miss my train and am forced to pay more money for alternate transportation, a day did not go by that I was not treated as "a foreigner with a big wallet". Oh, I almost forgot to mention having to pay a fine to the police for not having my drivers license with me when riding the motorscooter I rented (who carries a license when just wearing swimming shorts and a t-shirt?), and when I told the rental place about this and gave friendly advice to warn future renters about this, she acted like it was not her fault/responsibility and with an attitude said "I asked you if you had a license" - even though she never looked at it or actually saw it, never told me to keep it on me, and nothing in the rental agreement said I needed to have it. Sure, there are still good things. it is not 100% bad. The beaches are nice, there are still good people, the food is decent ... you can relax or snorkel or buy various junk. BUT, things are much different than they used to be. After my first two visits to Thailand, I would rave to anyone who wanted to know about the friendly people, the cheap prices, and the convenience of most things. Now, I tell people that it all depends on what you expect and how much money you are willing to spend. If your mindset is "who cares what it costs. I'm on holiday", then go for it. If your mindset is "I want paradise and charm, and don't want to pay Wakiki-Hawaii prices", then be careful where you choose to go. For me, in the future, Thailand is low on my list of places to go. Been there, done that ... and Thailand's "that" is not even as good as it once was.
Ralfie
26 December, 2009
I agree 100%. Many parts of Thailand have lost much of their charm. I first visited Thailand about 10 years ago. Enjoyed every minute of every day/night. Wasn't ripped off once. I went two years ago to Bangkok and then to Phuket (against my better judgement but my girlfriend wanted to go) and it was barely enjoyable. From the taxis and tuk-tuks and street people trying to scam you in Bangkok, to the lack of reasonable priced (or available) transportation on Phuket, to bus proprietors outright lying and deceiving me so that I almost miss my train and am forced to pay more money for alternate transportation, a day did not go by that I was not treated as "a foreigner with a big wallet". Sure, there are still good things. it is not 100% bad. The beaches are nice, there are still good people, the food is decent ... you can relax or snorkel or buy various junk. BUT, things are much different than they used to be. After my first two visits to Thailand, I would rave to anyone who wanted to know about the friendly people, the cheap prices, and the convenience of most things. Now, I tell people that it all depends on what you expect and how much money you are willing to spend. If your mindset is "who cares what it costs. I'm on holiday", then go for it. If your mindset is "I want paradise and charm, and don't want to pay Wakiki-Hawaii prices", then be careful where you choose to go. For me, in the future, Thailand is low on my list of places to go. Been there, done that ... and "that" is not even as good as it once was.
Bankokbound
26 December, 2009
This article is right on the money, the cheating and scamming of tourists on phuket is rampant. He fails to mention quite a few other scams however. unfortunatley scams like these are present throughout thailand and the goverment has done nothing about it due to the fact that the police themselves are active participants in the scams.
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