Bangkok walking tour: The shops of historical Tha Prachan

From the student uprisings of the 1970s to the recent clashes in May, Tha Prachan has added more than a few bloody chapters to Thailand’s history books.

One of Bangkok’s most historical piers, it's a main river crossover point along the Chao Phraya River, between Thonburi and Mahanakhorn.

It’s also home to two of Thailand’s leading Universities, Thammasart and Silpakorn, and a huge array of decades-old generational businesses and unique individuals, all of which are worth checking out for a taste of old Bangkok -- nary a skyscraper in sight.

More recently, Tha Prachan has struggled with the rising levels of the Chao Phraya, with many homes and shops along the river banks inundated with water.

Nevertheless, its business owners aren’t going anywhere. We posed several of them a question: “How long have you been here and has this year's floods tempted you to leave?”

1. Nong Tha Prachan

“We’ve been here for 31 years and have no plans of leaving unless we get flooded over.”

As soon as you get off the boat at Tha Prachan, walk towards the exit, it is on the left just before you hit the market.

Nong sells all sorts of music, from jazz to pop and suffers no shortage of business due to Thammasat and Silpakorn University being close by.

2. Makaam Waan Aew

“Been here for 40 years and will stay for the rest of my life.”

As soon as you pass Nong Tha Prachan, on your right is Makaam Waan Aew, situated outside the Nai In bookstore. They are famous for their dry tamarinds.

Apart from tamarinds they have broadened their market and are now selling cakes, which have also become very popular.

3. Mitr Porchana

“We’ve been here for 53 years and have no plans on leaving.”

Ten meters or so on your right after you step away from the vicinity of the pier, Mitr Porchana specializes in beef noodles. A classic hit amongst University teachers and students as well as civil servants in the area.

4. Sompong the fortune teller

“I’ve been here for 10 years and dreamt the other day that I’m going to have a long life, so I will probably grow old here. I also have a lot of followers in the area, so there is no point leaving.”

Sompong is a fortuneteller who has set up shop outside Mitr Porchana. For 199 baht, he will look at your future through tarot card readings, palm readings or Chinese facial readings.

Sompong is also a feng shui expert and will go to your house for 5,000 baht to arrange your feng shui flow. Tel:+66 (0)86 992 6869 or +66 (0)86 898 9814.

5. New Yong Hiew Porchana

“We’ve been here for 50 years, through three generations of my family so we definitely won’t be leaving!”

Specialists in roast duck and pork on rice, this Chinese-style cuisine is ideal for a quick and wholesome lunch. It is just a couple of doors down from Mitr Porchana, on the same side of the road.

6. Aroi

“Been here for 25 years and probably won’t be going anywhere.”

One door down from New Yong Hiew Porchana, perched on the corner, is a cream-colored shop house with green shutters. Aroi sells all sorts of homemade traditional Thai dishes as well as Thai and Chinese desserts. Their bestseller is the mini toast.

7. Beads by Ter

“Been here for two years, not too sure how long I’ll stay, I just go with the flow.”

Turn the corner after Aroi onto Maharat Road and walk for approximately 20 meters to find this street vendor selling unusual beads.

The owner, Ter, cannot be missed, with his unusual style and assortment of beads and Buddha amulets hanging round his neck.

8. Trok Pla

“Been here for 30 years and probably will stay on because after all, it is the Buddha amulet hub.”

Just opposite from Ter’s bead shop is a long alleyway commonly called Trok Pla, which means “Monk’s lane.”

The alley is lined with shops selling Buddha amulets, perfect for collectors. If you need a landmark to find it there is a shoe shop at the top of this lane, named Baja.

9. Somwang Dental

“I’ve been doing this for two years,” says the owner, unsure of when he'll leave.

Located on Trok Mahathat, a road after Trok Pla and opposite Mahathat Temple, this streetside dental service fixes false teeth for only 200 baht per tooth.

Though, we have to add that super glue was spotted amidst the drilling and filing equipment.

10. Uncle Onn

“I’ve been here for 10 years and will probably stay forever.”

Onn or Uncle Onn as he calls himself, sells spinning windmills and a traditional Thai toy called "crickets," which imitate a cricket’s cry when you spin them. Uncle Onn makes them himself.

He can be spotted wandering around the Tha Prachan area with a huge backpack and foam structure with his self-made products hanging from it.

11. Wild boar teeth

“Been here for 40 something years and will keep selling until I cannot work anymore.”

Without making any turns, walk straight on from Tha Prachan onto Prachan Road and you will find another Buddha amulet haven.

If you walk for approximately 100 meters on your right, you will spot the only street vendor specializing in wild boar teeth from Myanmar, which are supposed to bring their wearers good luck.