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Street chef: Sofitel Silom's Boris Cuzon loves street food -- unless it tastes like the river

Street chef: Sofitel Silom's Boris Cuzon loves street food -- unless it tastes like the river

CNNGo joins the head chef for lunch to find out what inspires and perplexes him about Bangkok's roadside cuisine
Street chefGarlic clams and hainese chicken are among Boris Cuzon's favorite dishes.
This is the third in a four-part series in which CNNGo accompanies Bangkok’s top chefs on culinary tours of local street food stalls. Click here for Le Meridien executive chef Nachart 'Nine' Tengkanokkul's thoughts on street cuisine.
Following stints in the U.S. and his native France, Sofitel Silom executive chef Boris Cuzon has been cooking in 5-star Southeast Asian hotels for over a decade.

But while he spends most of his days creating gourmet dishes, he eats many of his meals on the street, trying the food at whatever vendors cross his path. We caught up with him over lunch at one of his favorite local food stall courts near Silom, on Narithiwat Soi 1, where we dined on braised pork leg and bag of pineapple . (The latter to aid digestion, he says.)

Why street food is so good

"It's an event -- the ambiance and experience is really part of the culture. People always have fun. Plus, the menu is extensive. It's the tastiest food and the best deal. It's easy to take home, and the service is never rude."

Best 'hoods, best food

"I like the streets around the Sofitel Silom and Soi Convent. But my favorite is the restaurant on the street across from State Tower in front of the bank, open only at night, where I often meet up with other hotel chefs at the end of the day."

What's on the menu?

"When I'm at the  place across from State Tower, I order clam satay with the roasted garlic and chili sauce. It's the best, and really the only place to get it in Bangkok. I also like their deep fried pork dipped in extra clam sauce and pork ball soup, [all paired with a bottle of] Singha beer."

What he won't eat

"Pla ra, the spicy fermented fish dip. You'll have bad breath for the rest of the day. And lots of river fish. I can't stand that river taste." 

Perplexing eating habits

"I'm puzzled by the Thai tendency to eat all day and people's saucing routines -- fish sauce, chilli etc. Some people do it automatically without even trying the dish first. I add to taste."

What inspires him on the street?

"Watching how vendors cook seafood and use curry spices, which I play with in soups, as well as lemongrass -- the bay leaf to Western cooking -- kaffir lime and Thai whiskey, which I play with in non-Thai desserts."


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