Khao chae 101: How to enjoy Thailand's famed summer dish

Every Songkran, Thai seniors get excited over two things: long overdue attention from their grandchildren and an excuse to enjoy one of the country’s most nostalgic dishes -- khao chae.

Khao chae is a classic royal Thai dish, making its first appearance in the court of King Rama II as a means of relief during the hot season. It was adapted from a simple Mon recipe into the complex, multi-dish variety found today. And though you don't need to be a member of high society to enjoy it, due to the elaborate process required to make the side dishes it's only widely available in April, the month of the Thai new year.

Ask any Thai youngster: Khao chae is an old person's dish and understandably raises many foreign eyebrows. “Rice in ice? With flowers?” To help the uninitiated get a taste of this popular but odd treat, we’ve put together a quick guide to khao chae.

Side dishes include deep-fried kapi balls and pork-stuffed green peppers drizzled with egg.

What is it?

There are three parts to khao chae: rice, jasmine-scented water (hence the floating flowers) and crushed ice. The rice is parboiled (boiled with its husk in tact) to keep its shape so it doesn't get mushy when immersed in water, making it chewier than regular cooked rice.

The side dishes are the real the star in this meal. Recipes vary but the essentials remain the same. Most of the side dishes tend to be sweet, except for one: young green peppers stuffed with minced pork. The whole thing is then drizzled in egg and fried.

Another must-have component is deep-fried kapi (shrimp paste) balls, which are balled up with ground coconut, battered and then deep-fried to perfection. This also goes well with kra-chai, or fresh Chinese ginger, which is usually served along with other fresh vegetables such as cucumber, spring onions and strips of raw mango.

Shredded sweetened pork or beef and Chinese radish (chai pow) are also important. In most khao chae sets, the radish is caramelized to shine. In older recipes, however, it usually would only be lightly stir-fried with palm sugar and eggs.  

Other sides that aren't as popular are boiled salted egg, pla naem (powdered dried fish meat), deep-fried red onions and sun-dried chilis stuffed with pla naem. 

How to eat it

Don't treat khao chae like khao tom (boiled rice soup). You'll only insult it. Khao chae is an art, not only in the preparation, but also in the feasting.  

Don't heap your bowl full with rice. Add just a third, followed by just enough jasmine water to cover the rice. Only add enough ice to cool things down.

Whatever you do, don't put the side dishes into your bowl of rice! Disgraceful! Have a little bite of your side dish, chew a bit, then follow with a spoonful of the icy rice.  

Don't forget to nibble on those fresh vegetables between each side to give your tongue a break from those sugar-overloaded bites.

Why you should try it

Just like Christmas, khao chae only comes once a year. Ok, that's an exaggeration as these days some Thai restaurants now serve the dish as part of their special menu all year. But it's a true Songkran classic and without it the celebration is just not complete.

Where to enjoy it year-round

April is the month of khao chae, which means the dish is available all over the city. But if you find yourself hooked and want to eat it all year, here are some of the best places enjoy khao chae in the off season.

Lai Ros
Sukhumvit Soi 49, opposite Samitvej Hospital. Open daily 11am-10pm. Tel: +66 (0)2 391 3193

Suan Thip
Chaengwattana Road, Pak Kret 3 Road, Nonthaburi. Open daily, 11am-11pm. Tel: +66 (0)2 583 3748  

Baan Prachachuen
37 Prachachuen Soi 33. Open daily, 11am-2pm. Tel: +66 (0)2 585 1323

For more on khao chae check out this beautiful post on blog Shesimmers.com, "dedicated to the people of Thailand in this strange time of chaos and celebration."