Bangkok today
Exotic, fast-paced and sometimes bewildering, Thailand’s sprawling capital city somehow retains many of the charms of a small village, with quirky details you won’t find anywhere else. Despite coups, protests and economic doldrums, tourists can't get enough of the 'City of Angels.' And although Bangkok is currently trying to make a name for itself in Southeast Asia as an automotive hub, a commercial hub, an IT hub, a manufacturing hub and a transportation hub, its reputation as one of the vibrant cultural centers of Asia is in no danger of being eclipsed.
Getting in and out
By Air
Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport opened in 2006 and is the primary airport for domestic and international travel. The old international airport, Don Muang, remains in use for limited domestic flights.
Taxis from Suvarnabhumi Airport into central Bangkok cost around 350 baht and takes 30 to 90 minutes. A new rail link to the city is set to begin operating in 2010, though unless traffic is heavy or your destination is near the station, the 150-baht savings might not make up for having to hop in a taxi or lug bags to a hotel.
By Train
Bangkok is served by two train stations, Hualamphong and Bangkok Noi. Hualamphong is the main station, while Bangkok Noi serves trains heading west. If you’re leaving the country by train you’ll need to transfer to a bus, ferry or another train at the border, depending on the country you're going to.
Getting around
Though taxis are plentiful and plenty cheap -- you might have to remind drivers to turn on their meters -- public transport is the best way to avoid traffic. To beat the gridlock, take advantage of the BTS Skytrain, MRT (subway), river ferry and canal boats.
The Skytrain connects major areas of Bangkok, with the Sukhumvit line starting from Jatujak Market in the north and cruising down to the far reaches of Sukhumvit Road. The Silom line heads from National Stadium across Rajdamri Road and down Silom before crossing the Chao Phraya River. From this line, the Chao Phraya Express Ferry can be caught from Saphan Taksin station.
The MRT starts from Hualamphong train station and cuts through the center of the city before ending in Bang Sue in Nonthaburi. Stations can be found in busy areas like Silom, Sukhumvit, Ratchada, Lad Prao and Jatujak. From the MRT you can connect to BTS Skytrain's Sala Daeng and Mochit stations.
For short distances, hop on the back of a motorcycle taxi (look for drivers' colorful, numbered vests) or tuk-tuks (motorized tricycles or auto rickshaws) for fast, thrill-packed rides that leave passengers more or less exposed to the elements of the road.
Plenty of low-cost airlines and a glut of hotels make it easy to book inexpensive flights and decent rooms for domestic trips. The exceptions are periods around major national holidays, when high demand can make booking travel a nightmare.
Language
Thai is Thailand's official language, though many regional dialects are spoken outside of Bangkok. Other than in primary tourist areas, English isn't widely spoken.
Maps are not commonly used, so it's best to get a hotel concierge to write destinations in Thai to show to taxi drivers. Thai is a tonal language and pronunciation is generally tricky for those who haven't studied it. The wrong inflection by earnest visitors can make even seemingly simple words incomprehensible to locals.
Good to know
- Songkran, or Thai New Year, is celebrated April 13-15, but often stretches into a full week of festivities and time off from work. During this time many businesses are closed and hundreds of thousands of people are travelling. Christmas and New Year's holidays attract the largest number of foreign visitors. Expect inflated prices and limited hotel availability around the country during all of these major holiday periods.
- Thailand instituted a no-smoking policy in 2007. Lighting up in restricted public areas will get you hostile glares and potentially a 2,000-baht fine.
- Taxi drivers, small shopkeepers and food vendors can’t -- or won't -- break large bills, so it's a good idea to keep plenty of twenty- and hundred-baht bills on hand. To break large bills, hit up one of the hundreds of 7-Elevens across the city.
- Many high-end restaurants and hotels add an automatic 10-percent service charge (i.e., compulsory tip) to bills. In smaller restaurants and when paying taxi fares, rounding up the bill or fare is more than sufficient as a tip.
- Electricity in Thailand is 220 volts and 50 hz. Outlets are irregular and accept either plugs with two flat blades as in the United States or Japan, or with two round pins as in much of Europe.
- Thailand’s country code is 66. The city code for Bangkok is 02. All mobile phones begin with 08. In both cases, drop the 0 if you’re dialing from abroad.
- Thailand is seven hours ahead of GMT.
- Thais are generally very polite. Mishaps or misunderstandings are best resolved with smiles rather than shouts or angry words.
Where to stay
Tenface: Stuffy, boring serviced apartments can’t compete with the spacious, modern suites and hipster-cool bar at this secluded property. 81 Soi Rumrudee, tel +66 (0)2 695 4242
Mandarin Oriental: Year in and year out, this historic property is rated as one of the world's great luxury hotels -- with prices to match. 48 Oriental Avenue, tel +66 (0)2 659 9000
Shanghai Mansion: One of Chinatown’s best hotels is also its coolest, replete with period furniture and designs from 1930s Shanghai. 479-481 Yawarat Road, tel +66 (0)2 678 0101
LeBua: Suites at this five-star hotel atop a 63-story building are so large that guests often suspect they've been given the wrong room. 1055 Silom Road, tel +66 (0)2 624 9999
Chakrabongse Villas: This former royal residence on the banks of the Chao Phraya River has been refurbished into beautiful small villas. 396 Maharaj Road, tel +66 (0)2 224 6686
Lub d: High design, low-cost hostel convenient to the river and central business district. 1055 Silom Road, +66 (0)2 624 9999
What to do
The Grand Palace: Astounding buildings, magnificent architectural details and ornate detailing. Not to mention historical significance. The Grand Palace is Bangkok's quintessential tourist attraction. Na Phra Lan Road, tel +66 (0)2 224 3328
Wat Pho: The golden reclining Buddha at this venerable temple is enormous and beautiful. To avoid the heat and crowds, visit in the late afternoon. Maharat Road, tel +66 (0)2 222 0933
The National Museum: The comprehensive collection of Buddhist art from across the region makes the lack of air conditioning and confusing setup worth the effort. Take the free (with admission) tour in English on Wednesday mornings. Na Phrathat Road, tel +66 (0)2 224 2333.
Museum of Siam: This new anthropology museum is interactive, provocative and fun. Kids will actually enjoy this one. Sana Chai Road, tel +66 (0)2 622 2599
Chao Phraya River: Take a ride on the Chao Phraya Express Boat or hire a private longtail boat for a glimpse at life on the legendary 'River of Kings.'
Excursions
Ayutthaya: It's no Angkor Wat, but the former capital of Thailand is full of ruins to explore, making it a pleasant day trip -- about one and a half hours by car, train or bus from Bangkok.
Kanchanaburi: A
two-hour drive west of Bangkok, Kanchanaburi is the place for WWII history buffs. It's the site of the famous bridge over the River Kwai (made famous by the movie of the same name), though few of the bridge's parts are original. Those looking for R&R can rent a bamboo raft
for a peaceful float on the river. A popular attraction for
backpackers and local travelers, most accommodation options are budget
to mid-range.
Ko Samet: It doesn't quite match the azure blue waters and white sandy beaches found on the Andaman Sea side of Thailand, but Ko Samet is still a great place for a weekend away on an island. It’s cheap and just nice enough to warrant the three-hour drive and boat ride from Bangkok.
Pranburi: Skip the crowds in Hua Hin and head to this neighboring town, just a three-hour drive from Bangkok. Pranburi has a handful of boutique resorts, quiet beaches and not much else.
Khao Yai: The country's largest national park is just three hours by car from the city. There's wildlife to gawk at, trails to hike, plenty of peace and quiet and cooler temperatures. No tent? No worries, the park service rents everything you need to camp. Those who don’t feel like roughing it can stay at one of the nearby wineries, such as PB Valley.
Where to eat
Polo Chicken: The fried chicken and spicy salads in this low-key restaurtant are sublime, even if the down-market surroundings are not. 3 Soi Polo, Wireless Road, tel +66 (0)2 251 2772
Chot Chit: This traditional restaurant in old Bangkok serves old-fashioned Thai food just like the owner's grandfather used to make. 146 Prang Pu Thorn, tel +66 (0)2 221 4082
Bo.Lan: In a city obsessed with food, it’s admittedly curious that there’s only one restaurant taking Thai cuisine to new heights. Not fusion, not stuffy 'royal cuisine,' Bo.Lan serves contemporary Thai food expertly prepared in a sophisticated setting. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, tel +66(0)2 260 2962
Nara: The exception to the rule that great Thai food is always served on the street or in decrepit shop houses is this well-designed, air-conditioned restaurant in a (gasp) mall. Erawan Bangkok Mall, 494 Ploenchit Road, tel +66 (0)2 250 7707
Greyhound Café: This Thai-fusion café run by fashion house Greyhound has chains around the city, but the original remains the best. Emporium Shopping Mall, 2nd floor, tel +66 (0)2 664 8663
Where to drink
Isaarn Teud Teung: A little bit (Thai) country, a little bit rock and roll and helluva lot of fun for those who like to be the only foreigner in the crowd. 63/192 Phra Pinklao Road, +66 (0)2 883 4434
The Nest: No servers with attitude and music low enough that patrons can actually hear their companions speaking. 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, +66 (0)2 654 6935
Gazebo: Somehow the Moroccan-themed shisha bar cum nightclub really does work in Thailand. Good live music and a nice view of the city from the open-air rooftop are draws. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 1, +66 (0)2 655 2471
Long Table: A much hyped, high-society bar that lives up to the buzz. As the name suggests, the bar features a very long table for communal dining. The balcony offers great views of the city. Elegant and surprisingly unpretentious considering the line of imported cars lined up for valet parking. Column Building, 25th floor, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, +66 (0)2 302 2557
Brown Sugar: For live blues and jazz lovers only -- patrons won’t be able to hear much else at this venerable Bangkok institution. 231/20 Sarasin Road, +66 (0)2 250 1826
Where to shop
Bangkok is filled with markets selling everything from antiques and retro clothing to old school electronics to tacky tourist buys. The Jatujak Market -- also known as the Weekend Market -- is the city's biggest market and has virtually everything.
Less chaotic is the Suam Lum Night Bazaar, a large shopping venue in the middle of the city with a popular beer garden.
Shopping malls are everywhere. The largest concentration of malls in the city surrounds Siam Square -- malls include the low-cost MBK, mid-range Siam Discovery and giant luxury mall Siam Paragon.
For gifts, Chitralada Shop at the Grand Palace or Narai Phand at the Intercontinental Hotel have well-made silk clothes, baskets and other handicrafts. Inexpensive souvenirs can be found at most any market or tourist area.
Health and fitness
Hotel gyms are the way to go if you’re looking for a workout and don’t want to venture out into the heat. Pathumwan Princess has one of the best in the city, but the Conrad Hotel, Plaza Athene and Nai Lert Park are also contenders.
Runners who don’t want to dodge traffic and risk injury on often badly maintained sidewalks should head to Lumpini Park for the 2.5-kilometer loop; or to Jatujak Park.
You can’t walk a block in Bangkok without passing a spa or massage parlor. For nice surroundings, privacy and trained therapists, head to a spa at any of the city’s five-star hotels, or to one of the city’s many upscale independent spas. For a cheap rub down, drop in anywhere.
For the uninitiated, biking in the city can be scary and downright dangerous -- and rental bikes hard to find. That said, free tourist bikes are available in the Old City. Look for the cluster of green bicycles near the larger tourist attractions, grab a map, leave a passport for security and watch out for traffic.
Business
- Face: The concept of 'face' is very much a part of local business, so make sure no one loses any during meetings. Never disagree directly, and avoid being confrontational in discussions. It's best to approach all matters with a smile.
- Introductions: The wai, with hands in prayer position and head bowed, is an essential greeting. Though foreign visitors aren’t expected to wai, doing so to superiors, elders and others in positions of authority or respect will be appreciated.
- Names: As a show of respect, Thais use the prefix 'Khun' when addressing others -- always by their first names. This applies to both males and females. Most Thais have a short nickname, as their birth names are usually several syllables long.
- Business attire: Due to Thailand's tropical humidity and heat, men's suits and jackets are worn only at the most important business events or meetings -- a shirt and tie is considered acceptable business attire for most occasions.
- Internet access: Many cafes, fast food outlets and malls provide wireless service. Bangkok's free city-wide free WiFi service is called Green Bangkok. It's run by True Move (register online), but it's painfully slow. Many shops and Internet cafes have PC terminals that can be used for a fee.
Money
- ATMs at most major banks are on the Cirrus, Maestro and VISA networks, so for most it's simple to make cash withdrawals in local currency.
- Credit cards are widely accepted.
- Tipping is not expected, but greatly appreciated. Most restaurants tack on an automatic 10-percent tip, referred to as a service charge. In establishments that don't include the service charge, rounding up the bill is considered polite.
Emergency info
In the event of an emergency, call one of the following numbers:
Tourist police: 1155
Police/emergency line: 191
Fire brigade: 199
Bangkok Ambulance: +66 (0)2 255 1133
